How to Take a Road Trip with Your Cat

Can you think of anything better than just having hours upon hours of quality time with your cat?

Neither can we!

But, if that quality time is going to be spent in the car, you need to make sure you’ve taken adequate steps to prepare for it. Don’t worry though, we’re going to tell you how to do all that, and more, in the short explainer below!

Plan a Cat-Friendly Route

You’ll want to make sure that the route you’re driving is “pet friendly” and has enough pit stops along the way so you can give your cat food, water, and a chance to use their litter box every two to three hours.

If your cat uses a harness or leash, you can even use this opportunity to let them stretch their legs and soak in the sights! That being said, we don’t recommend letting your cat out of the vehicle if you’ve never trained your cat with either contraption.

Unfortunately, a critical component of planning a “pet friendly” route means planning to practice caution with regards to the Coronavirus. This means you’ll have to avoid rest stops during their busiest hours and make sure you maintain six feet of social distance between yourself and other patrons. You’ll also want to make sure that wherever you’re going is not a COVID hotspot.

Find Cat-Friendly Boarding

You may be reading this header and thinking “Who in their right mind would take their cat on a long car ride just to end up at a hotel that won’t take cats?”

You’d be surprised. No, really. A lot of people do this, and it’s as irritating for them as it is for the hotels and beds-and-breakfasts who have to deal with them.

Don’t do this. Make arrangements ahead of time with wherever you’re staying and make sure they’re willing to host a cat. Luckily, this isn’t too much trouble!

Just use GoPetFriendly.com. They have a searchable state-by-state list of lodgings that will explicitly accommodate feline (and canine) friends at any price point!

Sites like Airbnb and VRBO also have a “Pets Allowed” filter that you can toggle to only display houses and apartments that are willing to accept pets.

Get Your Cat to Love Their Carrier

In order to have your cat ride with you in the car, they’re going to need to be safe and secure in their carrier. This isn’t just for their safety either; a loose cat can distract you while you drive, impede your ability to brake if they get onto the floor, or even become a flying projectile during a wreck.

So, to make sure one accident can’t become three, get your cat used to the idea of staying in their carrier for long hours before you hit the road. Doing this is easier said than done, though.

Introduce Your Cat to the Idea of Carriers

Remember: cats love routine. If they’re not used to their carriers, you’ll need to spend a not insignificant amount of time helping them form friendly associations with it as part of their environment. To do that, you’ll need to keep their carrier out and about in  a place wherever your cat spends lots of time.

Keep it Fun and Enjoyable

Try playing with your cat in and around their carrier too! (That is, if they’re the playful type). Doing positive activities with them around their carrier is a surefire way to build positive associations with it.

Likewise, you may want to try spraying calming pheromones on the mat inside their carrier and then placing that mat outside their carrier to lower their stress response around their carrier. You don’t have to spray much, either – a little goes a long way when it comes to pheromones.

Reward them for their Courage

In addition, you can give them a treat or a body brush them as a reward for getting in and staying inside their carrier for longer bouts of time. Whatever you choose to do, just remember to be patient with your kitty and be repetitive. After all, the end goal here is to make your cat content with the idea of being in her carrier, so getting frustrated at her will only delay that outcome.

Get Your Cat to Love the Car

So, now that you’ve gotten your feline friend to enjoy staying in their carrier, the next step is to get them to enjoy being in the car. For many cats, a trip in the car means a trip to the dreaded Vet so, depending on your cat’s age and disposition, this may be a short exercise or a very long one.  Hence, this will require some work (and possibly, plenty, of patience) on your part.

Warm Them Up to the Car

First, begin by taking your cat out to the car while they’re in their carrier and setting them in the backseat. Then, sit next to them and remember the 3 P’s of acclimation: play, pet, and praise. Partially open their carrier door and begin playing with them or petting them – heck, give them a treat …or two, too!

Introduce Them Slowly to Change

After they seem relaxed, you can buckle their carrier to the seat. Now, turn on the car and wait. See how your cat reacts to the rumbling and sounds of your car’s engine. If they’re calm, then you can begin testing how they do with changes to the car’s environment by turning on the A/C, the heat, or the radio.

Take Your Cat for Test Drives

Once your cat has shown that they’re comfortable with these changes, now’s time for the real thing: driving. Just a short drive around the neighborhood is enough to test your cat’s comfortability with being in a moving car. Remember to never push the duration of drives over what your cat is comfortable with.

But, if your cat seems to enjoy being in the car, you can increase the length of time of your next test drive. Keep increasing your test drives’ length up until the day of the trip. Take your time in your preparation for getting him used to being in the car for long periods of time-as we said, cats like routine.

Plan for the Potty

The last thing you want is to end up having multiple hours of driving left and your car reeks of cat pee. Don’t put yourself in that position – get a travel litter box that’s waterproof, easy-to-clean, and collapsible, and get some litter that your cat likes.

A proper litter box for traveling should be large enough to fit your cat while they do their business without being too big to fit inside their carrier. As for the litter itself, you’ll want to pick one that is low-dust, easily scoopable, and has supremely efficient odor control.

Keep in mind that accidents will still happen even with the best litter box and litter that you can get your hands on. That being said, it’s probably a good idea to line your cat carrier with disposable liners or some old towels.

Make a Plan for how You’ll Use the Bathroom

Now, the above covers how to ensure your cat has all they need to go to the restroom. But what about you? You need to be able to use the restroom without risking your cat’s safety by leaving them in a hot car.

Don’t Go Far

To do that, you’ll need to be extremely choosy about where you do your business (we know you must love hearing that one!). Only use the restroom at places where you don’t have to walk very far to find a usable bathroom.

Keep the Inside of Your Car Comfy

When you do find a suitable location, make sure to park in the shadiest spot you can find and turn on the A/C. Then, move your cat’s carrier to the floor and make sure they have ample water before you get out and remember…lock the doors!

Keep Your Trip to the Bathroom Short

And don’t lollygag! Just in and out, use the restroom and get back on the road. Trust us, you do not want to find out what happens when you leave a cat in a hot car for too long.

Prepare and Bring Proper Everything Necessary

You know what they say: those who fail to plan, plan to fail. While usually this is said in reference to studying for tests or saving for retirement, it’s a perfectly suitable phrase to use when discussing planning your road trip with your cat.

Consult with Their Vet

To start, let’s talk about medical preparedness. If your cat suffers from any chronic illnesses such as diabetes or chronic kidney disease, you need to consult with your vet soon before you leave to make sure their condition will not prevent them from having a safe trip.

You’ll also want to carry hard copies of your cat’s medical records during your trip. These should include things like their recent exam notes, any test results, and the names and doses of their medications.

Prepare their Medicines

Speaking of medications, you’ll want to make sure that you have an adequate supply of your cat’s medicines or supplements, as well as any necessary equipment, before getting on the road. And since no cat is impervious to getting injured, you’ll want to pack a first aid kit that contains things like scissors, adhesive tape, saline solution, gauze, antibiotic ointment, alcohol wipes,3% hydrogen peroxide and Banixx Pet Care.

Make them Identifiable

Finally, as the ultimate safety measure, make sure that your cat has some type of temporary ID tag with your address and phone number. That way, should she get lost, she won’t be at risk of being gone for good.

Prepare their Food and Water

Now, let’s talk about the two most vital things to bring along: food and water.

Obviously, bring some. But,don’t feel like you need to put food or water in your cat’s carrier. As we said before: cat’s love routine, so you only need to make sure to stop and feed them at the same times of day you normally would.

Similarly, you only need to give your cat water while you’re parked. Putting a water bowl in their carrier, while in motion, is just asking for a spill to happen. You may want to bring a gallon of water that is the same type of water they’re used to drinking at home, whether that’s tap or filtered. Cats are notoriously picky, after all.

Of course, you may be reading this and wondering “But what if I want to give my cat something just to tide them over on the long ride? Will they eat something small, at least, such as peanuts?” Well, we have that one covered too, just click here to get your answer.

How to Take a Road Trip with Your Dog

Road trips are such dreamy excursions. The open road. The new sights. The gas station coffee.

Ahhhh….we can’t think of anything better. Wait, yes we can!…. a road trip with our dogs!

But how do we plan for a road trip with our canine companion? Do we just stick them in a car and go? Or is it a more measured ordeal?

We’re going to answer those questions, and more, in the short guide below.

Plan a Pet-Friendly Route

One of the keys to any successful road trip (whether with dogs or without) is to plan your route around your needs. When you’re with your dog, however, this rule of thumb must be adjusted: instead, you’ll have to plan around both of your needs.

Before leaving your house, make sure you’re driving past plenty of rest stops that contain ample space for them to stretch their legs, go the bathroom, and play. Luckily, if you’re driving along major highways, you’ll probably find rest stops like these in abundance – the USA’s national highway system is very dog friendly, as it turns out.

That being said, right now a crucial element of being “pet friendly” includes safeguarding your four-legged friends from catching the Coronavirus.  To do that, you’ll need to avoid rest stops during peak busy hours to ensure you can maintain six feet of social distancing between you and other patrons. Additionally, you’ll want to make sure that your final destination is not a COVID hotspot, otherwise you risk making all of the precautions that you took, for naught.

Find Pet-Friendly Lodging

It seems like common sense. After all, why would you take your dog on a road-trip to a destination far away if that final destination wasn’t going to accommodate your dog?

Well, you’d be surprised how many people decide to play this game every day.

Don’t be like them. Plan to rest up for the night somewhere that is prepared to board you and your dog.

It’s not like you have to look very far, either. Plenty of top hotel chains such as Comfort Inn, Sheraton, Best Western, and Aloft Hotels are happy to provide pet-friendly stays for you and your dog.

If you’re looking for alternative sources for lodging outside of the mainstream, you can typically toggle a “pet-friendly” filter on sites like TripAdvisor or Airbnb to ensure you don’t accidentally end up staying somewhere with a “no shirt, no thumbs, no service” sign out front.

Practice, Practice, Practice

We know. It seems a bit…strange to imagine having to practice something as normal as taking your dog in the car. But we challenge you to remember how you felt about long car rides when you were a kid.

Is it coming back to you? Are you remembering lots of “are we there yet?”s and making up games to pass the time? Yeah, we thought so. Long car rides can actually be pretty grueling if you’re not mentally prepped for them.

Well, your dog needs to be prepped for them, too. Likewise, you need to gain experience with your dog in the car to learn their riding behaviors (how often they need to use the restroom, how often they need water, etc). Some dogs will act aggressively to loud noises such as a motor bike or 18-wheeler including charging at the car window, barking fiercely etc  It’s best to be prepared for this type of behavior in advance.

Take them for progressively longer car rides each day for up to one week before your trip, starting with a quick fifteen-minute jaunt around the neighborhood and building up from there in fifteen-minute increments.

To help ensure that this process actually helps make your pup feel more comfortable, make sure to end each trip with a positive experience for them. This can mean ending the ride at their favorite dog park, or even just giving them a treat at the end. The end goal here is to build positive associations in your dog’s mind with getting in the car.

Bring Proper Equipment and Documentation

Look, you wouldn’t go on any road trip without the right snacks, comfort boosters for our seat, paperwork, or entertainment sources, right?

So why would we expect that our dogs would be okay doing that?

If you’re going to make this a #bestroadtripever with your #bestfriendfurever, then you need to set them up for success by bringing along everything they need to be comfortable.

To start, let’s talk about food and water. Obviously, bring some. But you also need a place to put them.

While your car is likely already packed to the brim, you still need to make room for Fido’s food and water bowls. Luckily, plenty of pet care product manufacturers are aware of how much space traditional bowls take up and have created collapsible, car-friendly versions of them.

You should probably also try to keep your dog entertained for the duration of your ride. This is pretty easy to do. Just keep them chewing on something (a toy, not your car seats) while the car is in motion.  When you’re at a rest stop,  try to play a game with them such as fetch or tug of war. Remember: a tired dog is a well behaved dog!

And, while we’d hate to think of your furry friend ever getting into an accident or hurting themselves, it does happen. That’s why you need to prepare for the unexpected and bring a pet first aid kit.

This kit should include items such as scissors, adhesive tape, saline solution, gauze, antibiotic ointment, alcohol wipes, any prescription drugs your dog needs, and 3% hydrogen peroxide. You may also want to include anti-nausea drugs in case your dog gets car sick.

However, sometimes medical emergencies pop up that can’t be handled effectively by the contents of a first aid kit. When that happens, you want to be able to pull out hard copies (no digital stuff for something this important) of your pup’s medical records and be able to make educated decisions about how to proceed.

Your dog’s medical records should include information about any conditions that are currently being treated, a list of their current medications, a list of their vaccinations, and the contact information of your primary veterinarian.

Finally, and this point is often unfortunately overlooked: do not ride with your dog loose in the car. Not only is this distracting, but they can get seriously hurt if you get into a wreck. Instead, opt to put them in a safer option like a properly-sized dog carrier or a car hammock. Really, just anything that will prevent them from sliding around on the floor. If you don’t want to think about some restraint for your dog then consider this. In the case of a collision, unless restrained by some means, your dog becomes a potential projectile!! This would be very bad news for both of you!

Alright, now that you’ve properly stocked your car for this trip, it’s time to get on the road!

Take Frequent Rest Stops

We know you want to be like Clark Griswald and get to your location as fast as possible and, honestly, your pet is probably the same way. However, you have to be patient with your dog when it comes to stopping if your trip is going to be enjoyable.

Normally, dogs have to use the restroom between every four and six hours. Expect this to increase in frequency while on the road, as your dog is likely to drink more water on account of feeling dehydrated in a hot car.

Honestly, it’s a good idea for you to stop and stretch frequently anyway. It’ll keep you alert behind the wheel and it’ll keep your dog from feeling too cooped up. Of course, you could be a super cool pet parent and take them way beyond just rest stops. That is, if you’re feeling up for it.

Take Your Dog on an Adventure

There’s a million different ways you can keep your road trip with your dog from getting monotonous. One of our favorites is to use the app “BringFido” to locate nearby dog parks and beaches. Think of this as the dog equivalent of finding a brewery or winery on the road – it gives them an opportunity to do some of their favorite activities alongside other friendly faces!

Also, for the more physically fit and daring, you can use the MyTrails app on your mobile device to locate different nature and hiking trails of various difficulties all across the country! (Pro tip: if you’re in Colorado, Utah, or Wyoming, the whole state is basically trails so go nuts!)

DoNot Leave Your Dog in a Hot Car. Ever.

We should not have to say this, but we will say it as many times as it takes to get people to stop risking their pet’s lives for nothing: leaving your dog in a hot car is a massive risk to their health. Literally hundreds of dogs die every year because their owners are careless enough to leave them in a sweltering vehicle.

To illustrate how awful this experience is for your dog, we’re going to tell you just a couple of the things that happen when your dog enters heat stroke. In the initial stages of this heat stress, your dog’s heart rate will increase and their blood pressure will drop precipitously, causing a loss of ability for your dog to regulate their body temperature.

Over a period of minutes, your dog’s vessels will succumb to thermal damage, causing his circulatory system to initiate blood clotting to try and repair them. At the same time, your dog will experience a loss of blood flow to vital organs like their kidneys, liver, and GI tract. This can cause a variety of horrific side effects including bloody vomiting, renal failure, or hypoglycemia.

Working in tandem, all of these events terminate towards one unfortunate destination if no one intervenes: the death of your dog.

Just don’t leave your dog in your car. It’s just not worth it.

However, do you know what is worth it? Learning whether or not certain summer snacks, like cucumbers, are actually a healthy treat that’s ideal to bring along for your dog on road trips, or if it’s something you should avoid. Find out the answer by clicking here.

We know that, as a responsible pet parent, you want to keep your pet happy and healthy. That’s why we hope you’ll continue coming back to our blog at Banixx.com!  We hope you found this article helpful.  If your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.  Alternatively, we have a host of dog information on this page https://www.banixx.com/for-dogs/

 

 

 

 

How to Get Rid of Skunk Smell on Cats

Imagine how dumb you’d feel if, instead of getting attacked by an animal that was afraid of you, you just ended up smelling really, really badly?

Well, that’s basically what’s guaranteed to happen to your cat if they walk up to a skunk. The only difference between you and them is that they don’t know any better.

But, with the help of this quick read, at least you won’t have to worry about the skunk odor on your cat for too long if they do get sprayed.

What is Skunk Spray?

Skunk spray is a combination of several different gaseous compounds called thiols which bind quickly and strongly to skin proteins. The most prevalent chemical found in the thiols that constitute skunk spray is sulfur, which is why it smells so disgustingly bad.

Skunk spray is produced in the skunk’s anal glands. When a skunk is scared or threatened, it will aim their anus at the perceived threat and shoot their spray directly at them – sometimes from up to 15 feet away.

Why Do Skunks Spray?

Most of the time, skunks spray this putrid odor as a means of defending themselves against potential predators like wolves, owls, or coyotes.

Skunk Odor on Cat

However, skunks do have good manners, they don’t just spray first and ask questions later. In fact, they’ll give you plenty of warning before they do the dirty deed.

When a skunk starts to feel threatened, they’ll often hiss at the perceived threat as if to say “Do not mess with me”. If that doesn’t deter the threat, the skunk may stomp their feet and puff out their little chests to appear strong and ready for action. It’s only after all that has failed that a skunk will finally spray someone.

The reason skunks go to such lengths to avoid spraying people is because, well, they don’t have a lot of spray. And it takes a long time to replenish their

spraying liquid – like 10 days long. In that time, they’d be supremely vulnerable to other threats if they waste their spray on you,

Of course, there are other uses for spraying besides protection. For example, did you know some male skunks have been observed to spray other male skunks in competition for mates? Crazy right?

How to Avoid Getting Sprayed by a Skunk

Look, not getting sprayed by a skunk is very simple. All you have to do is just leave skunks alone.Cat sprayed by Skunk­

That’s it.

Skunks aren’t predators of humans or other large animals, so it’s not as though they have a reason to seek you out. Instead, it’s infinitely more likely that you would accidentally stumble upon them, either in their habitat or in your backyard.

If that happens, don’t sweat, don’t make a big scene. Just give the skunk its space and, if it approaches you for some reason, just remember the warning signs of an imminent spray-down that we talked about above.

Luckily, you probably already know this. You were probably told at least once to not mess with wildlife when you were younger, especially with skunks. However, cats haven’t been told that. They don’t know how thoroughly a skunk can mess up your day (or week).Instead of seeing a potential odorous hazard, many cats see skunks as a long, shiny, white tuft of hair with four stumpy black legs that demands immediate investigation..

So, the skunk will then try its best to warn the cat about how bad her day is going to get, but to no avail.  She is way too curious!

Then, the skunk will turn its face away, lift its tail, and…well you know how that story goes.

How to Deskunk Your Cat

So, your pointy-eared pal was just sprayed by a skunk. That’s just too bad.How to DeSkunk a Cat

Well, not to fear, skunk spray isn’t necessarily toxic or inherently harmful to cats (unless ingested).

However, and this is important to remember: if your cat was sprayed directly in the face, you need to take them to the vet. Cats who are sprayed directly in the face can develop acute anemia, making their gums pale, their appetite depressed, and their thirst increased.

Luckily, acute anemia as a result of skunk spray is pretty rare. But the smell is not. Thankfully, you won’t have to hang around that terrible scent for too long.

All you have to do is just follow this little guide we put together, and soon enough your little kitty will be smelling fresh as a…. cat?

Keep Your Cat Outside if She has Been Skunked

Do not, and we repeat do not, let your cat inside if they’ve been sprayed by a skunk. Trust us on this one.  You just don’t want to know, firsthand, what it’s like when that smell is tracked inside your home.

Check Them for Injuries

While skunk spray isn’t the worst thing your cat could encounter, an angry skunk is nothing to sneeze (or sniff) at. They can and will defend themselves with their claws and mouth if they feel it’s necessary.

After you’ve sequestered your cat to a safe place in the outdoors, check all over their face, neck, and body for signs of injuries.

Check The Eyes

We know – it pains us also to even imagine our cat’s beautiful eyes being damaged. But it unfortunately happens if too much skunk spray hits them: the sulfur inside the spray degrades the lining of the eyes. If you notice that your cat’s eyes look remarkably red, irritated, or swollen, immediately flush them out with cool water or a veterinarian-approved eyewash product.

However, this all changes if you think your cat was sprayed directly in the eyes instead of just getting some spray in their eyes. If you believe this is the case, seek prompt veterinary attention because skunk spray can damage the cornea and cause temporary blindness.

Remove Skunk Spray Oil from Their Fur

Besides being absolutely rancid, skunk spray loves to cling to your cat’s fur. Great. No need to worry though, getting this oily stuff off their beautiful coat isn’t too difficult.

First, grab the help of another person. Cats aren’t famous for their love of baths, so getting another set of hands is going to be useful in making this go as smoothly as possible.

Once you’ve acquired help from another person, have them hold your cat in place while you soak your cat’s fur in lukewarm water. Once properly soaked, lather up your cat with Dawn detergent (yes, the same stuff that’s advertised as being tough on grease) and begin gently massaging it into their fur.

Don’t be afraid to get deep into their fur – the point is to get as much grease out as possible. Once they’re fully sudsed up, wash them off again with plain warm water.

Make Your Cat Deskunking Solution

So, you’ve made sure your cat is injury-free and that their fur is oil-free. Great! Now’s the time to start making your DIY deskunking solution. Have no fear, you probably have most of the ingredients you need in your kitchen or laundry room already.

To make this solution, as described by Spruce Pets, you’ll need:

  • Two, 500 ml bottles of 3% hydrogen peroxide (no stronger than 3%)
  • ¼ cup of baking soda (not powder; only use baking soda for this recipe)
  • Two teaspoons of liquid soap
  • One quart of lukewarm water
  • A clean mixing vessel like a bucket or bowl
  • Mineral oil to protect your cat’s eyes
  • Latex or rubber gloves
  • Apron and eye goggles
  • Old cloth towels

Once you’ve got all your materials together, you’re ready to make the solution. To do this, just combine the hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and liquid soap in one of the bottles.  Add lukewarm water as needed.

Now, it’s time to bathe the cat. Again.

Bathing Your Cat to Get Rid of the Skunk smell

The bathing process begins by massaging the solution deep into your cat’s coat, making sure to aggressively scrub and break up any oils you didn’t catch during the initial wash.

To ensure this is as successful as possible, consider using a sponge, washcloth, curry comb, or any other tool that will let you deep clean your cat’s fur.

After you’ve deep cleaned your cat’s fur, just leave the solution in-place and wait until the odor becomes undetectable to your nose. If you can’t smell anything after fifteen minutes, you’re in the clear!

Rinse off your skunk victim with lukewarm water, dry her with your old cloth towels and give her as many head scratches as she’ll allow for being such a good kitty.

If you still smell something after fifteen minutes, repeat the bathing process described above until the odor has faded.

How to Prevent Your Cat from Being Sprayed by a Skunk

There’s an old saying that goes: the best defense is a good offense. The same thing can be said about protecting your cat from being sprayed by a skunk: you have to take proactive steps to minimize the chances of your cat encountering a skunk.

Perhaps the most impactful tip we can give you in that regard is to never leave any food outside in your yard. Not only will this keep skunks away, but it’ll keep most other animals out, too.

Additionally, you can block access to common skunk den spots such as underneath your porch or deck by tacking chicken wire all around them or by tossing mothballs into the space to dissuade them from nesting there.

Of course, some animals can’t help themselves. Some animals are just going to do certain things, even when there’s all the signs in the world telling them not to. For skunks, that might mean mozying into your yard or setting up shop underneath your deck. For Einstein, the world’s tiniest horse, that behavior might be making you squeal in surprise at how cute he is.

Finally, if you notice that your cat shows any signs of an irritating skin infections as a result of this trauma, reach for Banixx PetCare! This clinically-proven solution provides fast-acting, sting-free, odor-free (imagine that!) relief for a variety of unpleasant maladies without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. Simply identify the affected area, apply Banixx once or twice daily, and in no time your cat will start feeling better. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

For more information on how to keep your cat happy and healthy, visit our cat blog at Banixx.for Cat.Lovers

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How to Prevent Bumblefoot in Chickens

Here’s a quick joke for you.
How did the gum cross the road?
It was stuck to the chicken’s foot.

We know, we’re hilarious. But you know what’s not a laughing matter at all? Bumblefoot infections in chickens.This unfortunate, painful infection can have serious consequences for your pecking pal if left untreated. But too often chicken owners are unable to determine the signs and symptoms of Bumblefoot until it’s too late and the result is that their chickens have lost function of their feet.

To help combat this problem, we’ve decided to put together a brief article explaining what Bumblefoot is, what causes it, how to spot it, how to treat it, and most importantly, how to prevent it. So, without further ado, let’s get into the thick of this article – unless you’re too chicken.

What is Bumblefoot?

Bumblefoot, also known as pododermatitis, is a bacterial infection that occurs on the feet of animals. It develops when a cut or scrape on a chicken’s foot becomes contaminated by Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli, or Pseudomonas bacteria. Once introduced, Bumblefoot typically presents as a large, inflamed red area on the footpad. If not treated, this infection has the potential to spread from the footpad, where all initial infections develop, to the joints and tendons in the legs. This peripheral infection can quickly escalate and may lead to the death of the affected chicken. The severity of Bumblefoot is determined by grading the infection along a 5-point scale from Grade 1 to Grade 5, with Grade 5 being the most severe.

Bumblefoot in stages

At Grade 1, you may notice some small, shiny pink appear on your chicken’s foot. Peeling and/or flaking on the chicken’s foot may also occur at this stage. By Grade 2, any potential lesions will begin to appear as smooth surfaced, circumscribed areas located on the pads of one or both feet. Grade 3 will see the development of these lesions into ulcerations that are easily noticeable. This is typically known as the ‘abscess state’, with serous or caseous fluid draining from the lesion. By Grade 4, the ulcers’ tissue will begin to deteriorate and die. This will usually cause some pain and discomfort and may prompt mild lameness. As the infection continues developing it becomes a Grade 5, where the area around the necrotic tissue continues swelling and often leads to severe lameness or loss of function in the affected foot.

Once a bumblefoot infection is established, it tends to progress quickly, so swift treatment is vital to ensure that your chicken can retain function in the affected foot without complication.

What Are Some of the Causes of Bumblefoot?

We’ve mentioned before that bumblefoot is a kind of opportunistic infection, one that is typically only present when a cut or scrape creates a window for the infection to take root. While sometimes these scrapes or cuts are the result of chickens walking atop poorly constructed perches or in poorly-built cages, other causes may make a chicken more susceptible to developing bumblefoot.

For example, a chicken who is already suffering from mild lameness in one foot may inadvertently put excessive pressure on the other foot to compensate. This can cause the functional foot to dig into the ground which can create abrasions or cuts that are at risk for infection. Similarly, chickens who are overweight may put more pressure on both of their feet in order to comfortably walk, which can have the same effect as single-leg lameness.

How to Prevent Bumblefoot?

Prevention is the best course of action for preventing your chicken from suffering from bumblefoot. Prevention is far less costly, time-consuming, or uncomfortable for your feathered friend than treating an ongoing bumblefoot infection. At its most basic level, prevention includes routine, thorough visual examinations of your chicken’s feet and how they walk.

Visual inspection of your chickens’ feet.  The presence of small, black scabbed areas on the sole of your chicken’s foot should set off alarms in your head that your chicken may have bumblefoot. Additionally, chickens with bumblefoot may exhibit different walking behaviors such as walking with a limp or refusing to perch at night.

The quality and cleanliness of a chicken’s coop.  This plays a vital role in protecting them against opportunistic infections like bumblefoot. Any coop should be kept clean of any and all fecal matter, as chickens who step in fecal matter are exposed to a variety of bacteria which grow on the skin. You may want to replace wire flooring in your coop with solid, nonabrasive flooring, as chickens can cut their toenails and legs on wire flooring which can lead to bumblefoot.

The build of your chicken’s perch.  Evaluate to make sure it’s safe and comfortable for your chicken. Perches should be at least two inches wide and up to four inches wide to minimize the amount of pressure the chickens are placing on their feet. Adding a softer material on the outside of the perch has also been shown to reduce footpad pressure by providing a better gripping surface for the bird’s foot. Perches are one of the more popular things for an owner to build for his/her chickens.  But did you know that building this too high off the ground may set your chicken up for injury? Bumblefoot is often caused by force and too much pressure to the foot, hence activities such as jumping down from a perch place your chicken at increased risk for injury. Foot injuries caused by force, such as landing from too high a perch may present a greater threat to chickens than skin infections. Recommendations for building a perch is to have it less than 20 inches off the ground. The smaller the distance between the perch and the ground means less impact for your chickens’ feet and this could lessen or eliminate foot problems

Proper nutrition.  This plays a vital role in reducing unnecessary foot pressure. Make sure to avoid over-feeding your birds by feeding them commercial, total-mixed ration pellet or crumble feed rather than high-calorie chicken scratch. Also, remember that treats or other snacks should also be limited to no more than 5% – 10% of your flock’s daily dietary intake.

Look out for bullying. You’ll also need to make sure your chickens aren’t being bullied by your other birds! Yes, we’re serious. Chickens who are at the bottom of their pecking order are more likely to be chased by more dominant birds, which increases their activity levels and the pressure they put on their feet.

How to Treat Bumblefoot

Determining the best course of treatment for Bumblefoot relies heavily on the infection’s stage. Earlier stages are much easier to treat and may only require minor changes to the bird’s living environment. However, later stages may require surgical treatment to fully tackle the infection and prevent further complications.

Some online forums recommend that chicken owners perform a sort of at-home surgery to remove any Bumblefoot. We do not recommend this course of action. Given the fact that Bumblefoot is a staph infection that may develop abscesses which need to be drained, it is best to focus on making your chicken comfortable for proper treatment that should be administered by a trained Veterinary professional.

However, in the meantime, you should remember to quarantine any affected bird away from the healthy members of your flock. Staph infections are notoriously contagious, and the last thing you want is for a malady affecting one bird to become a problem with all of your chickens.

One way you can safely treat the early stages of Bumblefoot at home is to spray or soak the affected feet in the Banixx for CHIXX product. This clinically-proven antibacterial, antifungal agent provides immediate, sting-free, odorless relief without relying on the use of pesky antibiotics or steroids. Soak the affected foot in Banixx for CHIXX daily as they go to roost each day (that’s when they’re calmest).

To do this, first begin by cleaning the affected foot. Remember to use disposable gloves during this process, as this will protect you and your chicken. After bathing their feet, dry them and tuck them under your arm to control their wings so that your patient doesn’t leave!. Next, spray or soak sterile gauze with Banixx CHIXX and grab one strip of vet wrap. Hold the end of the vet wrap around the shank of the lower leg and bring it down and between two toes and over the top of the foot. Continue wrapping in this fashion two or three more times. Then, grab a strip of electrical tape and do the same motion, going over the bandage you’ve just created. The electrical tape will both hold the bandage in place and prevent moisture from entering the wound. You should change the bandage and re-apply Banixx CHIXX each day until you notice some healthy tissue forming.

These sessions may be enough to clear up minor infections entirely. For more severe cases, these sessions will serve the purpose of bringing the infection above to the surface, which makes them easier for a veterinarian to treat. In either case, your chicken will begin to feel profound relief just through these soaking sessions. With Banixx for CHIXX, relief really can be that simple.

As a proud pet parent, we know you want to keep your clucking companion happy and healthy, so we hope you found this article helpful. If you suspect your chicken has developed Bumblefoot, please keep Banixx for CHIXX in mind. Alternatively, we have a host of information on how to treat chickens on this page: Best Chicken Information.

How to Bathe a Horse

We thought about starting off this article by saying hey, but, as you know, HAY is for horses.

As part of being a responsible horse owner, you have to know how and when to bathe your horse. Not only will this keep them looking (and smelling) their best, but it will also prevent them from developing otherwise totally preventable skin issues.

But bath time should be more than just a functional chore. It’s also an opportunity for you and your horse to bond, and for you to demonstrate your love and care for them. That’s why we wanted to write this short explainer where we break down how often you should bathe your horse, as well as the various methods for bathing your horse. That way you can bathe a horse to the best of your ability!

So, let’s get into it!

How Often Should You Bathe Your Horse

As humans, the topic of how often to bathe can be kind of an interesting question to explore. Some of us bathe twice daily, while others are lucky to see the inside of a shower more than once per week. The reason for such a variance is because humans have different opinions for how often they think it’s necessary to bathe. Well, horses are the same in this regard!

Deciding how often your horse should bathe is entirely dependent on a myriad of factors, including function, personal preference, and industry standards. If your horse is a racing horse, it may be best to give them a bath after each ride. However, jumpers may only need to bathe every month or so. Additionally, if you have a show coming up, you may want to wait until just before the event to bathe your horse so that they’re looking their best.

However, some circumstances can create a need to bathe your horse. If your horse has recently rolled around in mucky grass or mud, or any other unidentified substance, you probably should clean them. Additionally, if you notice that their mane or tail is looking pretty tangly, then bathing is a great, effective way to help them untangle it. Also, the end of spring can necessitate a bath, as their winter coat is likely shedding so their undercoat needs some love. Above all else, you just need to bathe them on a regular basis, whatever that means for you. Otherwise, your horse can be at risk for developing some nasty skin infections and disorders such as rain rot.

If your horse is in that unfortunate position, don’t fret – reach for Banixx for Horses. This clinically proven antifungal and antimicrobial solution provides immediate sting-free and odor-free relief without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. Simply massage Banixx into the affected area two to three times per day, making sure to spray out to the edges of the area for good measure. Within just a week of application, you should notice profound improvement in your horse’s condition. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

What Supplies Do I Need to Bathe a Horse?

You’ll want to own a few key supplies to ensure that you can capably complete the various bathing methods that we’ll discuss below. These supplies include:

  • A hose with an adjustable nozzle
  • Two buckets
  • A curry comb
  • A couple full body sponges and smaller ones for the face
  • A sweat scraper
  • Multiple dry towels
  • A body brush
  • A mud brush
  • A finishing brush
  • A dandy brush

You may need more supplies than are listed here depending on your horse or your preferences..

What Are the Different Ways to Bathe Your Horse?

There are three main ways you can bathe your horse:

  1. Hot toweling – ideal for cold weather times
  2. Rinsing off – perfect for a lightly soiled horse or when time is limited
  3. A full bath.- makes everyone feel good!!

Hot toweling is a great way to clean your horse in cold weather, as it doesn’t require you to get your horse completely wet. Rinsing off your horse, on the other hand, is a great, easy way to clean your horse on a hot day without needing to rely on any soap or other cleaning products. Finally, a full bath requires both that you initially rinse off your horse and then apply shampoo products to complete the process.

How to Hot Towel Your Horse

Hot toweling is an incredibly easy method of bathing your horse. All you need is a bucket of hot water, a sweat scraper, a dandy brush, a body brush, a mud brush, a finishing brush, a curry comb, and a bunch of dry towels.

To adequately prepare your horse for hot toweling, you’ll need to groom your horse thoroughly. Start by removing any loose hair or dirt with a curry comb. If your horse has a natural winter coat, use a stiff bristled dandy brush to remove dirt by working backwards from the crest of the neck in short, firm strokes. You’ll then want to repeat this step with a body brush to get up any finer dirt particles that a dandy brush couldn’t get. Finally, go over your horse with a soft finishing brush, using short, firm strokes to remove the tiniest layers of dirt. Now, let’s move on to preparing our bucket for hot toweling.

To prepare a bucket for hot toweling, fill a large bucket about two-thirds of the way full with hot water. Then, grab as many towels as you think you may need so you can have them on hand during the process. Now, you’re ready to start hot toweling your horse.

Begin by taking a towel and plunging it into the bucket, making sure to soak it thoroughly in the hot water. Then, wring out as much of the water as possible before placing the towel gently on your horse’s neck to acclimate him to the warm temperature. Scrub vigorously in a small section. Flip the towel over periodically to make sure you’re only using clean sections. Once you’ve finished cleaning this small section, take one of the dry towels and begin removing as much moisture as possible. After you’ve dried off this section, discard your current towel and repeat this process on a different section with a new, clean wet towel. Do this until you have hot toweled and dried your horse’s entire body.  Voila – you’ve hot toweled a horse.

Now, what about when the weather is a bit more forgiving? How do you rinse or bathe a horse?

How to Rinse Off a Horse – or- Give your horse a Mini-bath

When rinsing off a horse, you have two options available to you. You can either use a hose, or a bucket and sponge. We don’t necessarily have a preference for one over the other, a hose is sometimes easier to use. Some horses just don’t enjoy baths with a hose – I have one of those – he is more comfortable with the bucket and sponge routine!

To rinse your horse off with a hose, begin with a slow hose stream (spray nozzle on or off depending on your preference) starting near the bottom of your horse’s legs and gently work your way up.to his body. If you wait until your horse is standing still before moving on to other parts of the body, this will indicate that he is acclimated to the water and temperature.

Once a horse is acclimated, attach a nozzle to the end of your hose or adjust the nozzle in place to allow you to generate a higher water pressure. After attaching or adjusting the nozzle, begin running the hose back and forth from the top of your horse’s neck to his withers until the water runs clean. This tells you that you have removed any dirt, sweat or grime. Then, slowly work your way from front to back and top to bottom on one side before switching to the other. Once you’re finished, use a sweat scraper to remove excess water. If any of the water you’re wicking off is dirty, repeat the rinsing process until it is clean.

In the event you don’t have a hose available, or if your horse is body clipped or has a shorter coat, the other option is to use a bucket and sponge. All you need for this is a bucket of clean, slightly warm water and a sponge. Simply dip your sponge into the clean water and wipe it over your horse’s body, beginning with the neck and working your way down to the hindquarters before finishing with the face and legs. Once you’ve covered their body, you can carefully, slowly swish any remaining water from the bucket over their back and hindquarters to remove any remaining sweat or dirt that you missed. This final step is only recommended if you know the horse well and know that he will be tolerant of this final swish. It’s not a good plan to do this with a young or skittish horse.

How to Give a Horse a Full Bath

While rinsing a horse off is a quick and easy way to both basically clean them and allow their coat to retain natural oils, sometimes you need to give a horse a full bath with soap. To do this properly, you’ll actually need to rinse them off first as described above.

While your horse is still wet, dispense the recommended amount of shampoo (see label directions) into a small bucket (2 gallons) and fill up with warm water. Mix it together well and then submerge a big body sponge into the bucket. Squeeze it gently to wring out most of the water and then gently work the shampoo-laden water mix over your horse’s entire body. For particularly dirty areas or areas where there are manure stains, you may need to add some shampoo directly onto the sponge and work it into your horse’s wet skin. Remember: you must rinse your horse off until the water runs completely clear, as any leftover soap will make their skin itchy. However, if you are using Banixx Medicated Shampoo, there is NO soap in the formula, but rinsing is still important. Once the water runs clear, dab up some of the excess water on your horse’s skin particularly in areas such as the pastern, face and belly. Drying the pasterns will help prevent scratches, drying the face may make your horse more comfortable.  Toweling the belly is advised because a wet, drippy belly will (a) attract flies and (b) may cause your horse to cow-kick to relieve the ticklish sensation of water.

How to Wash a Horse’s Tail and Face

Regardless of which method for bathing your horse you use, you’ll want to wash their tail, too. To do this, begin by thoroughly soaking your horse’s tail in water, making sure to spread apart the hairs to get every hair wet. Then, directly apply shampoo to the wet tail and use your hands to massage it all the way to the skin on the tail-bone (dock).  Smear a small amount of shampoo to the long tail hairs from the dock on down near to the bottom of your horse’s tail.  You will need more if the tail is dirty—you’ll have to be the judge just as you are when you wash your own hair.  After you’ve thoroughly shampooed your horse’s tail, rinse it with cool water until the water runs clear. If the tail was particularly dirty, you may have to repeat the process. Once the tail is clean, allow it to air dry and finally, once dry, brush it out with a tail comb. Now you have a beautiful tail.

You may also want to condition your horse’s tail to keep it healthy-looking and easy to comb through. Luckily, this is pretty easy. All you have to do is make sure the tail is dry, apply the conditioner, and comb it through from root to tail. Then, wait fifteen minutes or so before rinsing it out. On the other hand, if you use Banixx Medicated Shampoo, it has conditioner built into it via premier Marine Collagen, so no need for an added conditioner.

It’s a good idea to clean/bathe your horse’s face – don’t want them going around making first impressions with a dirty face would you? What would their moms think? However, be warned that some horses are incredibly sensitive to the sensation of water on their faces. If this is the case with your horse, you may have to slowly introduce them to that sensation with the hose on an extremely light flow- it may be a good idea to have a buddy on hand to help you with this one.  If you are patient, your horse will get to the point where he tolerates water being applied to his face.  Always be careful around his ears, don’t spray into or onto his ears.

If your horse is already comfortable with having their face washed, start by dipping a sponge into warm, clean water. You might start out with a small sponge for a sensitive horse, working up to a larger sponge. Wring it out, and then gently go over his face, head, and ears. Next, gently apply slightly soapy sponge over the same trail you just made with the initial rinse. Finally, rinse the face again with a soap-free sponge and warm water until all the soap is gone.  Gently towel dry his face.  Most horses seem to relish this- it seems like a sort of bonding.

Safety Considerations for Bathing Your Horse

As with any activity involving a horse, safety must come first. Luckily, there are just a few things you can do as a horse owner to ensure that bath time is a fun, safe experience for everyone.

Look around at the area where you will bathe him.  Is there equipment that may topple on him if he collides with it? Is there barn equipment that does not need to be in the same area? Such as brooms, pitchforks whether plastic or metal? Saddle stand? Tack trunks? Clear the area of any of these items.  Horses have an uncanny knack of getting into trouble if it is at all possible!

Remember to always be mindful of where your bucket and hose are. You don’t want you or your horse to accidentally get caught and tangled up in your hose or bucket, and you certainly don’t want you or your horse to accidentally kick the bucket. Okay, bad joke.

Be aware of where the water and soap are going as you bathe him. This sounds obvious, but you need to remember that horses are incredibly sensitive to certain sensations. They may react poorly if water gets in their ears, or if soap gets in their eyes,

Finally, and this goes without saying, really, never stand behind your horse. Their rear end is incredibly powerful and it’s probably their best means of defense.  If your horse gets spooked during bathing, you DON’T want to be in that location!

As a proud horse owner, we know you want to keep your galloping pal happy and healthy, so we hope you found this article helpful. If you suspect your horse has developed any kind of skin disorder such as rain rot, please keep Banixx for Horses in mind. Alternatively, we have a host of information on how to treat horses on this page: Best Horse Information.

5 Ways to Keep Dogs Cool in the Heat

The Fourth of July might be well behind us, but the summer heat is just starting to really gear up. August is just around the corner, and that means that the season’s most sweltering temperatures haven’t even begun to hit us. Luckily, many of us don’t have to suffer through the heat and humidity that late summer brings the way our grandparents did – thank goodness for the invention of A/C.

However, our pups have a slightly more difficult time keeping themselves cool, even if they live in a house with A/C (their full-time fur coat doesn’t make that any easier…). With that in mind, we have to think outside the box if we’re going to keep our four-legged friends cool, comfortable, and, most importantly, safe as the temperatures begin to ramp up. That’s why we decided to assemble this quick guide of tips you can use to keep your pooch cool as a cucumber as the days get shorter and hotter.

Know the Signs of Heat Stroke in Dogs

First, before we delve into how to keep your dog cool, we feel the need to open this article with a  bit more….serious information. Any pet owner who lives in an area of the country where the average summer temperature rises above 80°F needs to know how to recognize the signs of heat stroke in dogs.

It’s important to understand that any hot environment can cause a dog to succumb to heat stroke. Additionally, you should know that some dog breeds are more prone than others to suffer from heat stroke. For example, snub-nosed dogs like Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boston Terriers have a much harder time regulating their temperatures due to their shorter nasal passages. Additionally, dogs who have thick fur or who are elderly or obese are at a greater risk of heat stroke due to their body’s inability to quickly regulate their temperature.

With that being said, there are a few tell-tale signs that a dog might be suffering from heat stroke. The most noticeable symptom, by far, is excessive panting. Other symptoms may include drooling, red gums, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of balance, or collapse. If you think your dog is suffering from heat stroke, make no mistake – this is a medical emergency and you must seek out professional care to ensure your dog’s safety.

In the meantime, remove the dog from the hot environment as soon as possible. After removing them, cool your dog off by placing a towel or rag soaked in cold water on their back and around their neck. You may also pour cool water over their head, stomach, armpits, or feet to help aid temperature regulation. Also, offer your cool water, but do not force them to drink.

Once you’re at the veterinarian, the prognosis for your pup will depend on how high the body temperature is elevated and how long their heat stroke has persisted. If treatment is sought as soon as possible, most healthy pets will recover fairly well without too many complications. However, your vet will likely want to monitor your pet for secondary complications that may arise as a result of heat stroke, such as kidney failure, abnormal blood clotting, or sudden collapse.

Keep Cold Water on Standby

It doesn’t matter if you’re in the backyard or going on a multi-mile trek in the backwoods – you need to have fresh, cold water that’s easily accessible during the summer months. The last thing you want is for a particularly nasty wave of heat to wash over you and Fido while you’re out and about without an easy way to keep them hydrated.

You can accomplish this relatively easily. Just bring a portable, collapsible water bowl or a squirt bottle with you wherever you take them and remember to stop and hydrate every 20 minutes. Remember to bring enough cool water to last the entire time that you’re out and about, too! The last thing you want is to find yourself halfway back to your car with the sun beaming down from overhead and no water to spare.

However, if you suspect that your dog is in dire need of water, remember to have them sip on it, not slurp it up. As Arleigh Reynolds, Purina Senior Research Nutritionist, says: “For a forty-five to fifty-five pound dog, don’t let them drink more than four to eight ounces of water at a time. After they’ve had time to absorb it and get it out of their stomach, give them some more ten or fifteen minutes later.”

The reason for this warning is because dogs who swallow too much water in a short amount of time may begin to suffer from what’s known as water intoxication. While rare, this condition can lead to brain damage and can sometimes even be fatal. Some signs of water intoxication to look out for include vomiting, loss of coordination, bloating, pale gums, or trouble breathing. If your dog begins exhibiting any of these symptoms after drinking a decent amount of water, call your veterinarian immediately.

Avoid Going Outside During the Hottest Part of the Day

It seems simple (and obvious) enough: who wants to go out when it’s so hot outside you could cook an egg on the sidewalk?

And yet many pet parents do exactly that and trot their furry friends on the blistering sidewalks as the sun scorches overhead. This, to put it lightly, is foolish, unnecessary, and dangerous.

If you know that the weather outside is going to be particularly unforgiving temperature-wise, then opt to take your dog outside during the cooler parts of the day like early morning or later evening.

Also, remember to always check the temperature of the surfaces you’re going to have your dog walk on before you go. Even when the outside temperature feels relatively comfortable to you, that isn’t a reliable indicator of how the ground feels against the pads of your dog’s feet. In order to ensure the ground is a safe temperature for your dog, lay the back of your hand on the ground. If you can not endure the heat from the ground for at least seven seconds, then it is not a suitable temperature for your dog’s paws.

If you decide to bypass this safety protocol, be warned that your dog’s paws will likely be burned. If you’re walking outside with your dog and they show great hesitation to continue the walk, move to some shade and gently inspect their paws. If the pads on the underside of their paws appear red or swollen, they may have a first degree burn. However, if blisters are visible or, worse, if the skin is charred, then a second or third degree burn may have been generated.

In the event that you suspect your dog’s paws have been burned, you must consult your veterinarian immediately to ensure proper aid is rendered. However, in the meantime you can cool the affected paws under running, cool water and then bandage them. This will prevent further injury from taking place.

Stay Out of Hot Cars

Every year there are PSAs published warning pet owners about the dangers of leaving their dogs in unattended, hot cars, and every year hundreds of innocent pets die from being left, unattended, in hot cars.

What’s worse is that some pet parents think that so long as they employ what they believe are effective heat mitigation strategies – such as cracking windows – then no danger is posed to their beloved pet. This is a massive error in judgement, and it stems from plain ignorance to how hot cars get.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), cars that are parked in direct sunlight can reach internal temperatures between 131°F and 172°F when it’s between 80°F and 100°F outside. The lower bound of that temperature range, 80°F, should surprise you, as 80°F feels relatively mild to us. But, again, dogs are not humans. They have an entirely different anatomy and entirely different mechanisms through which they can cool themselves. Not to mention the whole-body fur coat they’re wearing!

So, if you must travel with your dog this summer, please do not, under any circumstances, leave them in your car. It is simply too dangerous. Plus, bringing them in with you is sure to net them lots of pets! So, by practicing good pet ownership, you can both ensure their safety while making their day that much more filled with love!

Play in the Water (with Caution)

Who doesn’t love to take a nice dip in the pool/river/lake/ocean on a hot summer day? It’s simply the most effective and fun way to cool off when it feels like an oven outside. Same goes for your pets, too!

And don’t fret if you don’t have ready access to a neighborhood pool or another naturally occurring water source! You can always place a small kiddie pool on the patio to allow your dog to simply stand in the water and cool off. This is especially useful since a dog’s pads are one of the only places on their body where they can actually sweat from, so standing in some cool water is a surefire way to help them stave off the heat.

However, if you do decide to take them to a larger body of water on an especially hot day, remember to have them enter it slowly. Changing his body temperature too abruptly can actually cause his internal organs to heat up faster, rather than slow down. Instead of letting him gallop into the water full-steam-ahead, let him stand in the cold water for a while and gradually get deeper and deeper.

Additionally, you must inspect the strength of any currents or tides in the bodies of water where your dog is swimming and honestly assess whether your dog is capable of safely swimming there. It may seem a bit over-protective, you may even think “But don’t all dogs just innately know how to doggy paddle? It’s in the name after all…” but this is a misstep in thinking. The claim that not all dogs know how to tread water is evidenced by the fact that tens of thousands of dogs die each year from drowning. Understanding this, it’s best to equip your little paddler with a life vest when they’re in still or very slow moving water, and to avoid all sources of water that appear to have any genuine pull to them.

It is also a smart idea to inspect the water quality of where your pup is going to be taking a dip, as some types of algae present in freshwater sources are toxic to dogs. Also, be sure to wash salt and sand off of your dog’s coat after they’re done swimming to prevent it from drying and irritating their skin. In the event that you forget to do this and you notice that a skin infection begins developing, don’t worry – just reach for Banixx!

Banixx is a clinically-proven formula that provides instant, sting-free, odorless relief for a variety of maladies including skin infections, ringworm, ear infections, and more, without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. Just identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily, and wait. Within minutes of application, your dog’s discomfort should dissipate and their spirits will rise. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

We know that, as a responsible pet parent, you want to keep your pet happy and healthy. That’s why we hope you’ll continue coming back to our blog at Banixx.com!  We hope you found this article helpful.  If your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.  Alternatively, we have a host of dog information on this page https://www.banixx.com/for-dogs/

 

 

 

Courage the Cowardly Dog: Anxiety in Dogs

Do you remember the cartoon Courage the Cowardly Dog?

If not, you should go watch an episode. It’s just as hilarious (and scary) now as it was back in the early 2000s.

If you don’t know what we’re talking about, let’s go on a journey back in time to the ancient year of 1999.

In late 1999, a cartoon aired on Cartoon Network that starred a loveable, and very frightful, purple dog named Courage. Courage lived on a desolate farm in the middle of Kansas with his owners Muriel and Eustace.

During the show’s four season run, Courage and his owners encounter a variety of spooky villains ranging from monsters to demons to zombies to mad scientists. Most of the time, the theme of the story rests upon the ability of the scared dog, Courage, to save his owners from certain peril.

Now, why are we talking about this long-gone cartoon? Because, like the cartoon dog, millions of pups all over the world suffer from the same inhibiting anxiety that Courage did. However, unlike the cartoon, dogs in the real world can’t just decide to become more courageous and get over their fears.

Instead, dogs in the real world often have to deal with managing their response to fears that they don’t understand. What’s worse is that many pet owners don’t understand or can’t recognize the signs of anxiety in dogs, and so the dog’s anxiety only gets worse.

To combat that, we’ve written this short article to explain what causes anxiety in dogs, how to diagnose it, and how to treat it.

What Causes Fear in Dogs?

Fear is a completely normal response to stimuli that we recognize or perceive to be threatening. However, sometimes these fears can metastasize into something much bigger in our minds, something that is almost too horrible to look at or confront. When fears are exaggerated to the point where they’re no longer manageable, these are called phobias.

A dog can develop a phobia from a variety of unfortunate circumstances. One of the most common phobias a dog may experience is a phobia of other dogs, especially dogs who they aren’t familiar with. This phobia often arises as a result of poor socialization training when the dog was a puppy. Similarly, poorly socialized dogs may also develop a phobia of unfamiliar people, especially those who behave or look differently than the dog is accustomed to.

Another common phobia is the fear of inanimate stimuli such as loud or unfamiliar noises, environments, or a combination thereof. If your dog can’t stand Mr. Hoover, it’s likely they have some degree of fear towards the loud, whirring sound of the vacuum cleaner. Additionally, it’s not uncommon for dogs to develop fears of specific scenarios and situations that make them uncomfortable, such as going to the veterinarian or the groomer.

However, the most common cause of anxiety or fear in dogs by far is separation anxiety: it’s estimated that roughly 14% of domesticated dogs suffer from some form of separation anxiety. Unfortunately, separation anxiety is not a monolithic disorder. For some dogs, their separation anxiety stems from a fear of being left alone by their owners; this is the more classic form that most people are familiar with. For other dogs, their separation anxiety may just be triggered by a stark change in their routine.

While the discussion so far may make it seem like the vast majority of anxious disorders in dogs stems from a fear of the unknown, it should also be noted that plenty of dogs develop anxiety from other sources. For some dogs, their anxiety is a secondary result of an underlying illness (talk about a double-whammy). For example, dogs that suffer from hypothyroidism may develop anxiety as a result of their hormones being out of balance. Similarly, dogs who develop encephalitis (swelling of the brain) may become anxious due to the….well…pressure on their brain!!

We must also remember that, like humans, some dogs are simply wired to be a little more anxious than other dogs. We wish we were joking about that because it’s so unfair, but c’est la vie: some dog breeds are just more likely to develop general anxiety than others. Interestingly, researchers at the University of Helsinki have recently made the case that certain anxieties actually cluster within specific breeds after studying 200 dogs across 14 breeds. For example, they found that nearly 10% of schnauzers that they observed were aggressive and fearful towards strangers, whereas nearly every labrador retriever that they studied showed no fear at all towards strangers. They then posited that perhaps this difference in anxieties might be explained by genetic variance between breeds.

Previous research backs up this claim. One stretch of DNA in German Shepherds, for example  presents an oxytocin receptor gene OXTR.  This receptor gene was found in a 2019 study to be associated with both higher sociability and higher noise sensitivity. The researchers at The University of Helsinki suggest that, by breeding more social dogs, we have unwittingly bred more sensitive ones, too.

How is Anxiety in Dogs Diagnosed?

By and large, anxiety disorders will present themselves within the first two years of your dog’s life. During this time, it’s imperative that you, as their pet parent, watch them closely for two reasons: to understand what their normal behavior is like, and to catch any sudden and stark deviation from those expected behaviors.

When a dog does develop some sort of extreme fear or phobia, they will likely begin presenting with some combination of behavioral and physical symptoms. It’s important to note, however, that the mere exhibition of these symptoms is not necessarily a cause for concern. We all get a bit anxious sometimes and need someone to rub our belly and tell us it’s okay!! It’s only when these anxious behaviors become recurrent that further evaluation and treatment should be pursued.

A dog who is feeling anxious may begin to engage in destructive behavior, such as clawing, tearing, or thrashing at their crate or at items in your house. They may also begin nervously pacing throughout your house or, may present a general restlessness that is insatiable. Anxious dogs may even forgo their house training and begin urinating or defecating in their living space as a result of working themselves up too much. Insert here

If your dog begins to engage in any of these behaviors with regularity, it may be time to consult with your veterinarian about professional treatment.

How Do You Treat Anxiety in Dogs?

Because excessive anxiety is often the result of a confluence of factors, your veterinarian will likely prescribe a combination of training, prevention, and, in some cases, medication.

In most cases, treatment of anxiety in dogs begins with either trying to change the dog’s emotional response to the anxiety-inducing stimuli (this is known as counterconditioning) or by trying to replace their response with a desirable one using reinforcement-based techniques (this is known as response substitution). In order to make this training as effective as possible, you may want to consult with a professional dog trainer who will know how to administer these techniques in a way your dog will be most receptive to.

However, as Merck Veterinary Manual describes, these approaches will only be as successful as the dog allows them to be. Given that many dogs who are highly anxious respond to perceived threats with autonomic, reflexive responses, it may be necessary to reduce their arousal levels by either minimizing the intensity of the stimuli through desensitization training or through medication.

On the subject of medication, it should be considered that some anxiety disorders may be too intense to be effectively treated with just training. SSRIs and other antidepressants may be prescribed to dogs who have anxiety that is not capable of being alleviated by training. The most common SSRI prescribed for dogs is fluoxetine, although other drugs such as sertraline or citalopram might be prescribed if fluoxetine is found to be ineffective.

It’s important to note that your veterinarian may suggest that you administer benzodiazepines to your pup up to one hour before any predictable anxiety-inducing event (such as a firework show, going to the groomer, etc) as a means of tamping their emotional response to the stressful stimuli  Hence careful planning/scheduling is also involved.

Also, some dog owners report success with using CBD oil to treat their pooch’s anxiety. To review, CBD, or cannabidiol, is a compound that is found in cannabis and hemp plants. CBD is different from marijuana because it does not contain the compound delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), so ingesting it would not lead to the psychoactive effects that we commonly ascribe to the feeling of being “high”.

CBD oil is commonly used by humans due to its observed anti-inflammatory effects, anti-nausea properties, and anti-anxiety impact. However, current research on its effectiveness at treating anxiety in dogs is rather limited and thus any claims about its definitive benefit for dogs should be very carefully evaluated.

That being said, more research is being conducted every day. At the moment, the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation is sponsoring a study with the Colorado State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences to evaluate CBD’s effectiveness at treating treatment-resistant epileptic dogs.

Moreover, any responsible dog owner should also recognize that, due to a lack of research and regulation with the CBD market for pets, there is considerable variation in quality between products. With this in mind, we recommend that you only ever buy CBD products that willingly provide a chemical analysis of their products with each purchase. Or, better yet, only purchase from your veterinarian. This will give you the peace of mind that what you’re putting in Fido’s tummy poses no risk to him.

Additionally, you should consider that perhaps there might be an underlying medical condition causing your pup to fret that could be treatable at home. A variety of unpleasant and unsightly ailments that affect your dog may cause them to develop anxious tendencies, such as skin infections, ear infections, and more.

If you suspect your dog is suffering from any of the above, reach for Banixx! This clinically-proven formula provides instant, sting-free, odor-free relief from a variety of maladies without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. All you have to do is identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily for a few days, and wait. Within minutes, your dog should feel like a brand new pup. With Banixx, relief really can be that easy.

We know that, as a loving pet parent, you only want what’s best for your pup and to make sure they can continue living a happy, healthy, anxiety-free life. That’s why we hope you’ll keep visiting our dog page to learn more tips on how to keep your pooch worry-free!

Best Dog Ear Infection Treatments

dog ear infection with veterinarian

If you’re the proud pet parent to a lovely dog, you’ve probably heard a lot about ear infections by now. They’re uncomfortable for your pet to deal with, and they can even produce some nasty health outcomes if left untreated.

Luckily, just with a little diligence, you can protect your pup from ever having to deal with them in the first place. As the saying always goes, the best offense is a good defense. In order to protect your pooch, you’ll need a quality dog ear cleaning solution at your side. But, with so many options to choose from, it can be difficult to pick the best one for your pet.

That’s why, in the following blog, we’ll break down what we like the best about five options available, how to tell when your dog has an ear infection, how to clean your dog’s ears, and how to apply medicated ear drops to your dog’s ears if they do get an infection.

Best Dog Ear Cleaners 2021

Banixx Dog Ear Infection Cleaner

Banixx’s Dog Ear Infection Cleaner can effectively be used to both prevent and treat ear infections in dogs, making it one of the most versatile dog ear infection treatment solutions on the market today. It is most effective when it is used 2-3 times per day.

Best of all, it provides instant, sting-free, odorless relief to your pup without relying on pesky antibiotics or steroids. In addition to this, it’s not oily or sticky like so many ear infection medications. To treat your dog’s ear infection with

Banixx, coat the inside of their ear with the solution and then gently massage it into their ear tissue. If your pup is new to Banixx, it’s a good idea to apply Banixx via a well-moistened cotton ball. Be sure to close the ear flap and keep it gently closed with your hand as you massage it into the ear tissue.

In just a few days, you should notice that any head shaking or discomfort your dog may have been feeling will have subsided – all from just a couple days of applications with our clinically-proven solution. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple. 8oz Av retail $14.99 (June 2021).

 

veterinarian examines dog ear inspection

Zymox Ear Cleanser with Bio-Active Enzymes

Zymox’s Ear Cleanser with Bio-Active Enzymes is most effective when used on a weekly basis as a preventative measure against the build up of bacteria or moisture. Many owners have reported greater success when pairing this with Zymox’s Otic Pet Ear Treatment with Hydrocortisone. Owners say that this solution also leaves a pleasant, fresh scent. 4oz Av retail $11.99 (June 2021)

Zymox Veterinary Strength Dog and Cat Ear Cleanser

Zymox’s Veterinary Strength Dog and Cat Ear Cleanser is most effective at preventing ear infections when used on a twice-weekly basis. It’s made of a unique blend of lactoperoxidase, lactoferrin, and lysozyme that help inhibit microbe production within the ear canal. Users also report this solution leaving a mild scent after each cleaning. 4oz Av retail $11.99 (June 2021)

Burt’s Bees for Dogs Ear Cleanser

Burt’s Bees for Dogs Ear Cleanser is primarily used to prevent the development of ear infections. It is most effective when applied to your dog’s ear canals at least once per week. Many consumers laud this particular brand of dog ear cleaning solutions due to its heavy emphasis on using natural ingredients in its formula, particularly witch hazel which has been advertised as being able to prevent the buildup of debris. 4oz Av retail $11.98 (June 2021)

Pet MD Aloe Vera and Eucalyptus Dog Ear Wipes

Pet MD’s Aloe Vera and Eucalyptus Dog Ear Wipes are primarily used to make your dog’s ear and ear canals an unwelcoming habitat for yeast, bacteria, or other microorganisms. They are recommended for use twice per week. These wet ear wipes are infused with aloe vera and eucalyptus oil to provide your four-legged friend with a relaxing, natural solution for ear care. Additionally, these wet wipes are formulated to deliver lactic acid in order to preserve your dog’s skin’s natural acidity. 100 Wipes Av Retail $12.99 (June 2021)

When Should You Clean a Dog’s Ears?

A thorough cleaning of a dog’s ears is imperative to ensuring they’re in good overall health, but, you don’t have to drop dog ear infectioneverything right now to go spelunking in their ears.
Instead, just make ear cleaning a part of your dog’s routine grooming; that way you’re more likely to be consistent with doing it. A good rule of thumb is to clean your dog’s ears at least once per month, and check them for signs of infection, irritation, or parasites at least every other week.

However, please note that this advice may vary between breeds. Some breeds such as Cocker Spaniels and Basset Hounds will require more regular ear cleaning. Their droopy ears allow for less air flow than their counterparts who have much shorter ears, so moisture, dust, dirt and other debris can easily build up in their ear canals which may lead to a yeast infection.

Additionally, dogs that love to spend time in the water should also have their ears checked and dried frequently. The extra moisture from the water in which they swim can create optimal conditions for fungal infections to begin and spread.

Signs That Your Dog Has an Ear Infection

While some dogs may display no signs of suffering from an ear infection, other dogs may exhibit severe discomfort. If dog ear infection with veterinarianyour dog is suffering from an ear infection, you may notice that they’re tilting their head more than usual (note: ignore this advice if you’re holding a milkbone, then they’re tilting their head for a different reason).

You may also notice them shaking their head a lot, or perhaps you’ll see them stumbling around as if they’re unable to get proper footing. Ear infections affect balance with dogs just as they do with humans. Dogs with ear infections may also aggressively scratch or rub their ears against hard objects or show a reluctance to chew.

Of course, dogs with ear infections may also present more…obvious signs of ear infections. The area around their ears may lose its hair or may develop crusts or scabs. This area might also begin to swell or become very red. A foul odor emanating from your dog’s ears is a sure giveaway sign that infection is lurking!

If you suspect your dog has an ear infection, it is advisable to visit a veterinarian. There are three types of ear infections: otitis externa, media, and interna. Otitis externa refers to a type of inflammation that affects the layer of cells lining the outside of your dog’s ear canal. Otitis media and interna, however, refer to infections that affect the middle and inner ear canal.

Given that otitis media and interna can be very serious and result in deafness, facial paralysis, and vestibular disorders,canine ear infection it is important that you seek out professional veterinary advice before treating your dog’s ear infection. While cases of otitis externa can be treated with over the counter solutions, it is difficult for the untrained eye to accurately diagnose the severity or depth of an infected dog’s ear. So, remember: if you suspect your dog has an ear infection, get them assessed by a vet to ensure the infection’s root cause is taken care of.

A visit to your veterinarian is costly and time consuming which is why we advocate for dog owners to take a proactive approach. This involves a focus on minimizing the potential for dog ear infections to occur in the first place by using one of the solutions that we discussed above.

How to Clean a Dog’s Ears

For starters, you have to remember that any dog who isn’t used to getting their ears touched may be a bit skittish at you dog ear infection picturegrabbing their ears. You may have to bribe them to embark on this journey with you. And, DO make sure that the solution you choose to use is at least room temperature. If unsure, run the bottle under warn water to warm the liquid. Imagine if some.one put something COLD into your ear? Not Fun! Particularly if your ear was infected??

Offer them treats, toys, belly rubs, or whatever it is that’s going to help them relax. Making this a calm, semi-enjoyable experience for them will make this whole process go much smoother. Also, organize your supplies so that they are close by once you have embarked on the ear cleaning process; this keeps it short and sweet. That’s a winner for every-one!

Once your pup is relaxed, go ahead and proceed with the cleaning. There are two common ways to do this.

First, wet a cotton ball or gauze with an ear rinsing solution and wipe it around the outer flap of your dog’s ear. Be calm and slow with this step. Then, take a freshly moistened cotton ball/gauze and work your way from the outside of the ear in towards your dog’s ear canal, making sure not to go too deep or be too aggressive. Finally, wipe away or clean out any remaining wax or other junk from their ear canal with a third, fresh cotton ball.

long floppy ears infection

The other method involves placing a small amount of medicated ear cleaning solution in your dog’s ears, closing the

ear flap gently with your hand and then massaging the base of their ears. This action induces them to shake their heads, which is both adorable and will loosen the debris inside of their ear canals. Once this waste material has been loosened, you can gently

remove it from the inside of their ear canal with cotton or gauze. Repeat this process with a fresh cotton ball/gauze until you can wipe out the inside of their ear canal and come out with a clean cotton ball.

After you finish cleaning their ears, make sure to spoil them with treats, belly rubs, and lots of “good boys”. Enough positivereinforcement will make even the most skittish dogs receptive to modifications in their grooming habits.

If your dog has an ear infection and requires medication to be applied to their ears, complete the above process before proceeding with the following instructions.

How to Apply Medication for Dog Ear Infections

To apply medication to your dog’s ears, gently grasp the tip of their ear and pull the ear flap straight up to expose their ear canal. Then, administer the number of drops of medication your veterinarian has prescribed.

Next, while still holding the ear flap up vertically, begin to massage the base of the ear below the ear opening for approximately 30 seconds. This will allow the medication to coat your dog’s entire ear canal. Repeat this process with the other ear as needed, being sure to wipe away any debris or waste that accumulates on the flap of your dog’s ears.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.

How to Trim a Dog’s Overgrown Nails

You’re sitting down in your living room when you hear a very…antique sound.

Click clack click clack.

It almost sounds like a typewriter.

You look around and immediately identify the culprit: Fido. His nails are as long as a limousine and that sound is the sound of him walking around!

You may begin to wonder: is that okay? Should his feet be able to announce his entrance into a room like that? Or should his nails be a touch more prim and proper?

The answer is that trimming a dog’s nails is a MUST to ensure that he remain happy and healthy. We’ll go into the details of why that is, as well as how to trim this overgrown nails, in the quick blog below.

 

Why It’s Important to Trim Your Dog’s Nails

We know what you’re thinking: “I’ve skipped getting my nails done before and it never hurt me! You mean to tell me that my dog might be at risk of some sort of health issues if his nails don’t look good?!”

Yes!   Exactly that, actually!

Veterinarians have warned for decades now that unhealthy nails not only cause pain but can actually lead to irreversible damage to your dog. This is because neglecting to trim your dog’s nails means that the “quick” has time to grow unfettered.

As your dog’s nails get longer, his toes will begin to splay as they hit the ground, putting additional force on his foot and leg which can cause injury to the tendons over time.

Beyond the potential negative health consequences, long nails just make it uncomfortable for your pup to walk!

Since walking with long nails puts more pressure on their nail bed with each step, he’ll have to distribute his weight differently to be able to comfortably proceed. If you’ve ever had an ingrown toenail, then you should know exactly the kind of discomfort we’re talking about.

 

How Often Should You Trim Your Dog’s Nails?

There’s no absolute, right answer to this question. The amount of time you should let pass between each trimming depends entirely on how quickly your dog’s nails grow and how quickly they wear their nails down. Lapdogs who’s nails hardly touch the ground may need more attentive grooming, whereas dogs who are constantly out and about and grazing their nails on hard surfaces may need relatively little trimming.

However, it’s estimated that the average dog should have their nails trimmed between every three to five weeks. Similarly, some veterinarians like Dr. Whitney Miller, Head of Veterinary Medicine at PetCo, recommends that you cut your dog’s nails at least once per month.

That being said, we like to operate under a more reliable rule of thumb: you should absolutely trim your dog’s nails when their nails touch the ground while your dog is standing. We view this as a reliable indicator of when your dog’s nails are probably too long for them to walk comfortably.

Trimming a dog’s nails is not for the faint of heart.  If trimming your dog’s nails strikes fear into your heart, then– DON”T do it.  Simply take your dog to a reputable groomer or your local Veterinarian and have them do this for you.  It will be less stress and trauma for both you and your dog.

 

How to Trim Your Dog’s Overgrown Nails

“Okay,” you say grabbing your guillotine cutter, “Let’s do this!”

Woah, woah. Slow down there.

You can’t just chop off your dog’s overgrown nails!

At the center of their nails are a collection of nerves and blood vessels referred to as “the quick” and, since your dog’s nails are long, their quick is quite long as well. If you just go wantonly chopping off their long nails, you’ll inevitably hit the quick and cause noticeable pain to your pooch.

According to Dr. Karen Gellman of Dogs Naturally Magazine, the key to effectively and safely trimming your dog’s overgrown nails is to encourage the quick to recede by trimming your dog’s nails gradually. After making the initial trims, you should then continue to trim a little, over the course of a regular cadence, until the quick recedes to a safe length.

However, not all pups enjoy having an at-home spa day. If your dog hates having his nails trimmed, you’re going to have to teach him to overcome his fears of nail trimming. In order to do this, you’ll have to engage in what can be weeks-long desensitization training.

Start by taking out the necessary nail trimming tools and letting your dog investigate them. As your dog begins to show more comfort with the tools, reward them with treats. Repeat this process over a few days until it’s clear your dog has developed a positive association with the tools.

Once a positive association has been established, it’s time to trim. Get your dog into a comfortable position where they can be relaxed. It often helps to have a second person there to hold, pet, and distract your dog. And remember, keep those treats handy! Once he’s relaxed, lift your dog’s paw and hold it close to their body to prevent them from pulling away.

Now it’s time to locate the “quick”.

To do this, look at the nail under a good light. For dogs with lighter colored nails, you’re looking for a darker, pinkish section of the nail. When you extend your pet’s “finger” by pressing lightly on it, one at a time, his nail will protrude further and you will see the pinkish Quick WITHIN the nail tissue.

For dogs with darker colored nails, locating the quick may be difficult. According to the Washington State University Veterinary School, the quick on dark colored nails can be identified after making an initial, shallow cut.

After you’ve located the quick, it’s time to start cutting.

Once the initial cut is made, you should be able to see either a grayish-pink oval or a small black dot in the center of the nail. If you see either, you’re close to the quick so it’s time to stop cutting. Moreover, if ever in doubt as to how close you are to the quick…..STOP!

With your preferred tool in-hand, trim a very small bit of nail at a time.

You want to cut at a slight angle across the tip while following the natural shape of the nail.

While you’re cutting, be calm but confident! Trim the nails in a fairly quick and safe motion, but not too fast – you don’t want to cause any accidents.

Then, repeat with each nail!

Do, however, remember —that there’s no real rush to get all nails done at once. More skittish pups may only let you get one or two done at a time, so– be happy with that.  Please don’t rush it.

You want to make sure your pup is as comfortable as possible to avoid any sudden movements, on his part, such as pulling his paw away from you, that may cause an accident.  So it’s okay if you have to take several minutes between each nail or several days to get the whole job done.

Most importantly, make sure to offer your dog lots of praise and treats throughout the process! You want to reward their cooperation and bravery during this undoubtedly stressful moment!

Using a Dremel Tool to Trim Your Dog’s Nails

For some dogs and their owners, using a Dremel tool seems to be a safer option to trim nails..  Yes, it’s a more noisy technique and that’s something you’ll need to get your dog used to but it’s a more gradual procedure than a dog nail cutter.  It’s a process that you can use on your dog, say, once a month to keep his nails in constant, good shape and can be considerably less risky than using dog nail cutters.

 

What to Do if You Hit the Quick While Trimming Your Dog’s Nails

So, you’ve done it. You hit the quick.

Sigh

It’s okay. It happens to the best of us.

First thing’s first: quickly reassure that scared pup who’s in pain that everything is all right by giving them lots of pets and affection.

Then, jump into First Aid mode.

You’ll want to immediately compress the wound for a minute or two with a clean cloth or paper towel to stop any bleeding that may be occurring.

If the bleeding is minor, you can rub a bar of clean, unscented soap on the wound to begin cleaning it.

If the bleeding is steady, you’ll want to wrap the wound with a compressed cloth containing ice to stave off the blood flow.

After, you should then dip the affected nail into a mixture of cornstarch and baking soda. This step induces the blood to coagulate and stop flowing. You can also purchase a mixture from your pet store designed specifically for this task—stopping the blood flow.  You can compare it with a nick or cut that a guy gets on his face when shaving.

Once bleeding stops, continue to slightly compress their wound with the iced paper towel or cloth. Then, wash the affected nail with lukewarm water and bandage it to prevent the possibility of infection.

If bleeding does not stop after 20 to 30 minutes following the above treatment steps, a veterinarian must be consulted as this indicates that proper blood clotting is not occurring.

However, if after a few days you notice that the affected nail is beginning to show signs of an infection, don’t fret: reach for Banixx!

Banixx is a clinically-proven treatment that provides instant, sting-free, odorless relief to your four-legged friend without relying on pesky antibiotics or steroids. Simply identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily, and wait. Within minutes, your dog should be happily bounding up to you ready to go to the vet for a more serious evaluation.

With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.

My Dog Ate A Bee – What Should I Do?

Oh no.!!

Fido comes bounding up to you …only…he looks hilarious. No, scratch that! He looks bloated. Only in his face, though.

You know what this means: he ate the bee.

In between stifling your laughter, the responsible pet parent in you comes back. You begin to wonder: is he going to be okay? Is there anything I should be doing to help him right now?

We’ll explore all these questions, as well as tell you some quick tricks to prevent this sort of thing from happening again in the following blog.

Why Do Dogs Eat Bees?

As natural hunters, dogs often have their interest piqued by fast-moving objects they see out in nature. For certain classes such as retrievers or pointers, they’ll excitedly begin chasing after anything they see that moves, such as large animals such as sheep or tiny insects… like bees.

Some pups are also just naturally curious by the buzzing and bumbling of bees and, as all smart animals do, decide to investigate with their mouth.

Other dogs just might enjoy it! Much like humans enjoy trying to capture butterflies with nets, some dogs may just get a kick out of capturing bees….with their teeth.

Unfortunately, many of these forays into mouth-based detective work can lead to some unpleasant (albeit hilarious looking) consequences – getting stung. As a result, some dogs who get stung may develop a phobia of bees and other flying insects. Dogs who are afraid of bees may retreat at the first sound of buzzing or they may freeze in fear at the sight of a bee.

Dogs who have been stung by bees may also develop an obsessive-compulsive behavior known as fly-snapping, which is where dogs snap at imaginary flies that aren’t there. Interestingly, some breeds such as the Bernese Mountain Dog and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel are more liable to develop this disorder.

Can Bee Stings Hurt Your Dog?

The short answer is that it depends on whether or not your dog is allergic.

Bees are a species of insect that belongs to the order known as Hymenoptera. When these types of insects sting another animal, they inject venom through the skin via their stinger.

For most animals, these sorts of incidents will only cause mild discomfort and pain.

However, if your dog is allergic to bee venom, a single sting can induce severe systemic reactions including anaphylaxis.

What are the symptoms of a bee sting?

If you’ve ever been stung by a bee, then you know how unpleasant and annoying it is. Your furry friend will likely experience many of the same symptoms that you would if you were stung by a bee.

They may begin whining in response to the pain and even start pacing as a means of trying to escape the discomfort. If they ate the bee and ingested it, they might also begin involuntarily drooling as their mouth tries to cope with the irritation.

You may also notice the affected area begin to swell or become red. It may also become hot to the touch. Your pup might also begin to paw at their face. It’s pitiful, we know!

What are the symptoms of an anaphylactic reaction?

If your dog is allergic to bee stings and has been stung, they may begin appearing very weak and woozy as they walk.

Additionally, you may notice that their breathing has become labored or heavy-handed.

Dogs who are allergic and have been stung may also experience severe swelling around their mouth, throat, neck, or head.

Finally, and most worryingly, your dog may collapse as a result of the shock.

If you notice your dog displaying any of these symptoms following their ingestion of a bee, get them to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Prompt medical treatment may be the difference between them surviving or not.

What to Do if Your Dog Eats a Bee

my dog ate a bee

First and foremost, you have to figure out whether or not your four-legged friend actually ate the bee. This is especially important if you didn’t see them swallow the bee.

To figure this out, open up their chompers and give their mouth a thorough look all around.

We mean it. Get in there.

Inspect their gums, tongue, the back of their throat, the top of their mouth, everywhere. What you’re looking for is two things: the bee carcass, and their stinger.

If you find their stinger, for goodness sake– do not pull it out – that can actually push out more venom into your dog’s system. Instead, gently scrape the stinger with a flat surface by sliding it in a single direction out of your dog’s mouth.

If you suspect that your dog ate a bee but don’t have the evidence to prove it, the best thing you can do is closely monitor them over the next few hours. If you notice your dog spontaneously vomiting or having trouble breathing, take them to your veterinarian for further evaluation.

If you suspect your dog is going into or is about to go into anaphylactic shock, get them to a veterinarian immediately. While some people on the internet claim that just giving your dog an antihistamine is sufficient, please–do not listen to this advice. Your veterinarian should evaluate your furry friend so that they can prescribe the right medication given your dog’s condition.

In the meantime, give them lots of love! Remember how painful and frightening your first bee sting was? Now imagine how tough that would have been if your mom or dad hadn’t been there to comfort you!

How to Prevent Your Dog From Eating Bees

my dog ate a bee

Luckily, it’s not as though bees are just invading our homes. There’s plenty of things you can do to minimize the chances of your dog having a second lunch made entirely of bees.

The first is to eliminate any environmental factors that are encouraging bees to gather near your home. Remove any plants that attract bees such as lavender or roses, or better yet, plant some flowers or herbs that naturally repel pests such as mint or rosemary.

Additionally, consider changing your walking routes! We know – Sparky loves that one col-de-sac with the kids playing outside all the time. But if that particular route is just littered with bees or even beehives, it’s maybe best to avoid it.

Also, you may need to invest some time in teaching your furry buddy how to not be afraid of bees (which is something we all could use some work on). Counter-conditioning may be of particular help in training them to remain calm around these buzzy pests.

However, if your dog just thinks that eating bees is the bee’s knees, then you may need to muzzle them when they’re going to be in environments where they can eat them.

The best thing to remember is to be patient with your dog after they eat a bee.

Being stung by a bee can be traumatic enough, so imagine how scary accidentally eating one of those suckers must be!

If your dog eats a bee, monitor them for any especially nasty reactions, give them lots of love while they recover, and remember to take a photo of their hilariously inflated face to get those sweet, sweet likes on Facebook.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.

Sources

  • https://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/bernese-mountain-dog/
  • https://www.reddit.com/r/aww/comments/augjxn/he_eated_a_bee/
  • https://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/cavalier-king-charles-spaniel/
  • https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/blog/bee-and-wasp-sting-toxicity-in-pets/
  • https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/why-do-dogs-try-to-eat-bees-and-what-to-do-if-they-eat-bees/
  • https://www.purina.co.uk/articles/dogs/health/parasites/dog-stung-by-bee-wasp
  • https://sports.yahoo.com/dont-panic-dog-eats-bumblebee-192826339.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAJz5QLOgAawkBU3Sqn8w3N2qtHm7UoxgYhpe6WKhnm8gNFoyipDYLY5FkC0TwUYmuM9EVkEPXDx6mrhNh3QeNZ_nCQ2nvXxWl4jc7ITJP-l8J0LR-478vMI0Q0amT3ozTfF3h2yfJfhFQyO6GKhan-unzYvmuIYK2Zqshwpe8xTo
  • https://thepracticalplanter.com/plants-that-repel-bees-and-wasps/#:~:text=5%20%E2%80%93%20Mint,flower%20really%20deters%20these%20pests.