5 Ways to Keep Dogs Cool in the Heat

The Fourth of July might be well behind us, but the summer heat is just starting to really gear up. August is just around the corner, and that means that the season’s most sweltering temperatures haven’t even begun to hit us. Luckily, many of us don’t have to suffer through the heat and humidity that late summer brings the way our grandparents did – thank goodness for the invention of A/C.

However, our pups have a slightly more difficult time keeping themselves cool, even if they live in a house with A/C (their full-time fur coat doesn’t make that any easier…). With that in mind, we have to think outside the box if we’re going to keep our four-legged friends cool, comfortable, and, most importantly, safe as the temperatures begin to ramp up. That’s why we decided to assemble this quick guide of tips you can use to keep your pooch cool as a cucumber as the days get shorter and hotter.

Know the Signs of Heat Stroke in Dogs

First, before we delve into how to keep your dog cool, we feel the need to open this article with a  bit more….serious information. Any pet owner who lives in an area of the country where the average summer temperature rises above 80°F needs to know how to recognize the signs of heat stroke in dogs.

It’s important to understand that any hot environment can cause a dog to succumb to heat stroke. Additionally, you should know that some dog breeds are more prone than others to suffer from heat stroke. For example, snub-nosed dogs like Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boston Terriers have a much harder time regulating their temperatures due to their shorter nasal passages. Additionally, dogs who have thick fur or who are elderly or obese are at a greater risk of heat stroke due to their body’s inability to quickly regulate their temperature.

With that being said, there are a few tell-tale signs that a dog might be suffering from heat stroke. The most noticeable symptom, by far, is excessive panting. Other symptoms may include drooling, red gums, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of balance, or collapse. If you think your dog is suffering from heat stroke, make no mistake – this is a medical emergency and you must seek out professional care to ensure your dog’s safety.

In the meantime, remove the dog from the hot environment as soon as possible. After removing them, cool your dog off by placing a towel or rag soaked in cold water on their back and around their neck. You may also pour cool water over their head, stomach, armpits, or feet to help aid temperature regulation. Also, offer your cool water, but do not force them to drink.

Once you’re at the veterinarian, the prognosis for your pup will depend on how high the body temperature is elevated and how long their heat stroke has persisted. If treatment is sought as soon as possible, most healthy pets will recover fairly well without too many complications. However, your vet will likely want to monitor your pet for secondary complications that may arise as a result of heat stroke, such as kidney failure, abnormal blood clotting, or sudden collapse.

Keep Cold Water on Standby

It doesn’t matter if you’re in the backyard or going on a multi-mile trek in the backwoods – you need to have fresh, cold water that’s easily accessible during the summer months. The last thing you want is for a particularly nasty wave of heat to wash over you and Fido while you’re out and about without an easy way to keep them hydrated.

You can accomplish this relatively easily. Just bring a portable, collapsible water bowl or a squirt bottle with you wherever you take them and remember to stop and hydrate every 20 minutes. Remember to bring enough cool water to last the entire time that you’re out and about, too! The last thing you want is to find yourself halfway back to your car with the sun beaming down from overhead and no water to spare.

However, if you suspect that your dog is in dire need of water, remember to have them sip on it, not slurp it up. As Arleigh Reynolds, Purina Senior Research Nutritionist, says: “For a forty-five to fifty-five pound dog, don’t let them drink more than four to eight ounces of water at a time. After they’ve had time to absorb it and get it out of their stomach, give them some more ten or fifteen minutes later.”

The reason for this warning is because dogs who swallow too much water in a short amount of time may begin to suffer from what’s known as water intoxication. While rare, this condition can lead to brain damage and can sometimes even be fatal. Some signs of water intoxication to look out for include vomiting, loss of coordination, bloating, pale gums, or trouble breathing. If your dog begins exhibiting any of these symptoms after drinking a decent amount of water, call your veterinarian immediately.

Avoid Going Outside During the Hottest Part of the Day

It seems simple (and obvious) enough: who wants to go out when it’s so hot outside you could cook an egg on the sidewalk?

And yet many pet parents do exactly that and trot their furry friends on the blistering sidewalks as the sun scorches overhead. This, to put it lightly, is foolish, unnecessary, and dangerous.

If you know that the weather outside is going to be particularly unforgiving temperature-wise, then opt to take your dog outside during the cooler parts of the day like early morning or later evening.

Also, remember to always check the temperature of the surfaces you’re going to have your dog walk on before you go. Even when the outside temperature feels relatively comfortable to you, that isn’t a reliable indicator of how the ground feels against the pads of your dog’s feet. In order to ensure the ground is a safe temperature for your dog, lay the back of your hand on the ground. If you can not endure the heat from the ground for at least seven seconds, then it is not a suitable temperature for your dog’s paws.

If you decide to bypass this safety protocol, be warned that your dog’s paws will likely be burned. If you’re walking outside with your dog and they show great hesitation to continue the walk, move to some shade and gently inspect their paws. If the pads on the underside of their paws appear red or swollen, they may have a first degree burn. However, if blisters are visible or, worse, if the skin is charred, then a second or third degree burn may have been generated.

In the event that you suspect your dog’s paws have been burned, you must consult your veterinarian immediately to ensure proper aid is rendered. However, in the meantime you can cool the affected paws under running, cool water and then bandage them. This will prevent further injury from taking place.

Stay Out of Hot Cars

Every year there are PSAs published warning pet owners about the dangers of leaving their dogs in unattended, hot cars, and every year hundreds of innocent pets die from being left, unattended, in hot cars.

What’s worse is that some pet parents think that so long as they employ what they believe are effective heat mitigation strategies – such as cracking windows – then no danger is posed to their beloved pet. This is a massive error in judgement, and it stems from plain ignorance to how hot cars get.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), cars that are parked in direct sunlight can reach internal temperatures between 131°F and 172°F when it’s between 80°F and 100°F outside. The lower bound of that temperature range, 80°F, should surprise you, as 80°F feels relatively mild to us. But, again, dogs are not humans. They have an entirely different anatomy and entirely different mechanisms through which they can cool themselves. Not to mention the whole-body fur coat they’re wearing!

So, if you must travel with your dog this summer, please do not, under any circumstances, leave them in your car. It is simply too dangerous. Plus, bringing them in with you is sure to net them lots of pets! So, by practicing good pet ownership, you can both ensure their safety while making their day that much more filled with love!

Play in the Water (with Caution)

Who doesn’t love to take a nice dip in the pool/river/lake/ocean on a hot summer day? It’s simply the most effective and fun way to cool off when it feels like an oven outside. Same goes for your pets, too!

And don’t fret if you don’t have ready access to a neighborhood pool or another naturally occurring water source! You can always place a small kiddie pool on the patio to allow your dog to simply stand in the water and cool off. This is especially useful since a dog’s pads are one of the only places on their body where they can actually sweat from, so standing in some cool water is a surefire way to help them stave off the heat.

However, if you do decide to take them to a larger body of water on an especially hot day, remember to have them enter it slowly. Changing his body temperature too abruptly can actually cause his internal organs to heat up faster, rather than slow down. Instead of letting him gallop into the water full-steam-ahead, let him stand in the cold water for a while and gradually get deeper and deeper.

Additionally, you must inspect the strength of any currents or tides in the bodies of water where your dog is swimming and honestly assess whether your dog is capable of safely swimming there. It may seem a bit over-protective, you may even think “But don’t all dogs just innately know how to doggy paddle? It’s in the name after all…” but this is a misstep in thinking. The claim that not all dogs know how to tread water is evidenced by the fact that tens of thousands of dogs die each year from drowning. Understanding this, it’s best to equip your little paddler with a life vest when they’re in still or very slow moving water, and to avoid all sources of water that appear to have any genuine pull to them.

It is also a smart idea to inspect the water quality of where your pup is going to be taking a dip, as some types of algae present in freshwater sources are toxic to dogs. Also, be sure to wash salt and sand off of your dog’s coat after they’re done swimming to prevent it from drying and irritating their skin. In the event that you forget to do this and you notice that a skin infection begins developing, don’t worry – just reach for Banixx!

Banixx is a clinically-proven formula that provides instant, sting-free, odorless relief for a variety of maladies including skin infections, ringworm, ear infections, and more, without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. Just identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily, and wait. Within minutes of application, your dog’s discomfort should dissipate and their spirits will rise. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

We know that, as a responsible pet parent, you want to keep your pet happy and healthy. That’s why we hope you’ll continue coming back to our blog at Banixx.com!  We hope you found this article helpful.  If your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.  Alternatively, we have a host of dog information on this page https://www.banixx.com/for-dogs/




Courage the Cowardly Dog: Anxiety in Dogs

Do you remember the cartoon Courage the Cowardly Dog?

If not, you should go watch an episode. It’s just as hilarious (and scary) now as it was back in the early 2000s.

If you don’t know what we’re talking about, let’s go on a journey back in time to the ancient year of 1999.

In late 1999, a cartoon aired on Cartoon Network that starred a loveable, and very frightful, purple dog named Courage. Courage lived on a desolate farm in the middle of Kansas with his owners Muriel and Eustace.

During the show’s four season run, Courage and his owners encounter a variety of spooky villains ranging from monsters to demons to zombies to mad scientists. Most of the time, the theme of the story rests upon the ability of the scared dog, Courage, to save his owners from certain peril.

Now, why are we talking about this long-gone cartoon? Because, like the cartoon dog, millions of pups all over the world suffer from the same inhibiting anxiety that Courage did. However, unlike the cartoon, dogs in the real world can’t just decide to become more courageous and get over their fears.

Instead, dogs in the real world often have to deal with managing their response to fears that they don’t understand. What’s worse is that many pet owners don’t understand or can’t recognize the signs of anxiety in dogs, and so the dog’s anxiety only gets worse.

To combat that, we’ve written this short article to explain what causes anxiety in dogs, how to diagnose it, and how to treat it.

What Causes Fear in Dogs?

Fear is a completely normal response to stimuli that we recognize or perceive to be threatening. However, sometimes these fears can metastasize into something much bigger in our minds, something that is almost too horrible to look at or confront. When fears are exaggerated to the point where they’re no longer manageable, these are called phobias.

A dog can develop a phobia from a variety of unfortunate circumstances. One of the most common phobias a dog may experience is a phobia of other dogs, especially dogs who they aren’t familiar with. This phobia often arises as a result of poor socialization training when the dog was a puppy. Similarly, poorly socialized dogs may also develop a phobia of unfamiliar people, especially those who behave or look differently than the dog is accustomed to.

Another common phobia is the fear of inanimate stimuli such as loud or unfamiliar noises, environments, or a combination thereof. If your dog can’t stand Mr. Hoover, it’s likely they have some degree of fear towards the loud, whirring sound of the vacuum cleaner. Additionally, it’s not uncommon for dogs to develop fears of specific scenarios and situations that make them uncomfortable, such as going to the veterinarian or the groomer.

However, the most common cause of anxiety or fear in dogs by far is separation anxiety: it’s estimated that roughly 14% of domesticated dogs suffer from some form of separation anxiety. Unfortunately, separation anxiety is not a monolithic disorder. For some dogs, their separation anxiety stems from a fear of being left alone by their owners; this is the more classic form that most people are familiar with. For other dogs, their separation anxiety may just be triggered by a stark change in their routine.

While the discussion so far may make it seem like the vast majority of anxious disorders in dogs stems from a fear of the unknown, it should also be noted that plenty of dogs develop anxiety from other sources. For some dogs, their anxiety is a secondary result of an underlying illness (talk about a double-whammy). For example, dogs that suffer from hypothyroidism may develop anxiety as a result of their hormones being out of balance. Similarly, dogs who develop encephalitis (swelling of the brain) may become anxious due to the….well…pressure on their brain!!

We must also remember that, like humans, some dogs are simply wired to be a little more anxious than other dogs. We wish we were joking about that because it’s so unfair, but c’est la vie: some dog breeds are just more likely to develop general anxiety than others. Interestingly, researchers at the University of Helsinki have recently made the case that certain anxieties actually cluster within specific breeds after studying 200 dogs across 14 breeds. For example, they found that nearly 10% of schnauzers that they observed were aggressive and fearful towards strangers, whereas nearly every labrador retriever that they studied showed no fear at all towards strangers. They then posited that perhaps this difference in anxieties might be explained by genetic variance between breeds.

Previous research backs up this claim. One stretch of DNA in German Shepherds, for example  presents an oxytocin receptor gene OXTR.  This receptor gene was found in a 2019 study to be associated with both higher sociability and higher noise sensitivity. The researchers at The University of Helsinki suggest that, by breeding more social dogs, we have unwittingly bred more sensitive ones, too.

How is Anxiety in Dogs Diagnosed?

By and large, anxiety disorders will present themselves within the first two years of your dog’s life. During this time, it’s imperative that you, as their pet parent, watch them closely for two reasons: to understand what their normal behavior is like, and to catch any sudden and stark deviation from those expected behaviors.

When a dog does develop some sort of extreme fear or phobia, they will likely begin presenting with some combination of behavioral and physical symptoms. It’s important to note, however, that the mere exhibition of these symptoms is not necessarily a cause for concern. We all get a bit anxious sometimes and need someone to rub our belly and tell us it’s okay!! It’s only when these anxious behaviors become recurrent that further evaluation and treatment should be pursued.

A dog who is feeling anxious may begin to engage in destructive behavior, such as clawing, tearing, or thrashing at their crate or at items in your house. They may also begin nervously pacing throughout your house or, may present a general restlessness that is insatiable. Anxious dogs may even forgo their house training and begin urinating or defecating in their living space as a result of working themselves up too much. Insert here

If your dog begins to engage in any of these behaviors with regularity, it may be time to consult with your veterinarian about professional treatment.

How Do You Treat Anxiety in Dogs?

Because excessive anxiety is often the result of a confluence of factors, your veterinarian will likely prescribe a combination of training, prevention, and, in some cases, medication.

In most cases, treatment of anxiety in dogs begins with either trying to change the dog’s emotional response to the anxiety-inducing stimuli (this is known as counterconditioning) or by trying to replace their response with a desirable one using reinforcement-based techniques (this is known as response substitution). In order to make this training as effective as possible, you may want to consult with a professional dog trainer who will know how to administer these techniques in a way your dog will be most receptive to.

However, as Merck Veterinary Manual describes, these approaches will only be as successful as the dog allows them to be. Given that many dogs who are highly anxious respond to perceived threats with autonomic, reflexive responses, it may be necessary to reduce their arousal levels by either minimizing the intensity of the stimuli through desensitization training or through medication.

On the subject of medication, it should be considered that some anxiety disorders may be too intense to be effectively treated with just training. SSRIs and other antidepressants may be prescribed to dogs who have anxiety that is not capable of being alleviated by training. The most common SSRI prescribed for dogs is fluoxetine, although other drugs such as sertraline or citalopram might be prescribed if fluoxetine is found to be ineffective.

It’s important to note that your veterinarian may suggest that you administer benzodiazepines to your pup up to one hour before any predictable anxiety-inducing event (such as a firework show, going to the groomer, etc) as a means of tamping their emotional response to the stressful stimuli  Hence careful planning/scheduling is also involved.

Also, some dog owners report success with using CBD oil to treat their pooch’s anxiety. To review, CBD, or cannabidiol, is a compound that is found in cannabis and hemp plants. CBD is different from marijuana because it does not contain the compound delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), so ingesting it would not lead to the psychoactive effects that we commonly ascribe to the feeling of being “high”.

CBD oil is commonly used by humans due to its observed anti-inflammatory effects, anti-nausea properties, and anti-anxiety impact. However, current research on its effectiveness at treating anxiety in dogs is rather limited and thus any claims about its definitive benefit for dogs should be very carefully evaluated.

That being said, more research is being conducted every day. At the moment, the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation is sponsoring a study with the Colorado State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences to evaluate CBD’s effectiveness at treating treatment-resistant epileptic dogs.

Moreover, any responsible dog owner should also recognize that, due to a lack of research and regulation with the CBD market for pets, there is considerable variation in quality between products. With this in mind, we recommend that you only ever buy CBD products that willingly provide a chemical analysis of their products with each purchase. Or, better yet, only purchase from your veterinarian. This will give you the peace of mind that what you’re putting in Fido’s tummy poses no risk to him.

Additionally, you should consider that perhaps there might be an underlying medical condition causing your pup to fret that could be treatable at home. A variety of unpleasant and unsightly ailments that affect your dog may cause them to develop anxious tendencies, such as skin infections, ear infections, and more.

If you suspect your dog is suffering from any of the above, reach for Banixx! This clinically-proven formula provides instant, sting-free, odor-free relief from a variety of maladies without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. All you have to do is identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily for a few days, and wait. Within minutes, your dog should feel like a brand new pup. With Banixx, relief really can be that easy.

We know that, as a loving pet parent, you only want what’s best for your pup and to make sure they can continue living a happy, healthy, anxiety-free life. That’s why we hope you’ll keep visiting our dog page to learn more tips on how to keep your pooch worry-free!

Best Dog Ear Infection Treatments

dog ear infection with veterinarian


If you’re the proud pet parent to a lovely dog, you’ve probably heard a lot about ear infections by now. They’re uncomfortable for your pet to deal with, and they can even produce some nasty health outcomes if left untreated.

Luckily, just with a little diligence, you can protect your pup from ever having to deal with them in the first place. As the saying always goes, the best offense is a good defense. In order to protect your pooch, you’ll need a quality dog ear cleaning solution at your side. But, with so many options to choose from, it can be difficult to pick the best one for your pet.

That’s why, in the following blog, we’ll break down what we like the best about five options available, how to tell when your dog has an ear infection, how to clean your dog’s ears, and how to apply medicated ear drops to your dog’s ears if they do get an infection.

Best Dog Ear Cleaners 2021

Banixx Dog Ear Infection Cleaner

Banixx’s Dog Ear Infection Cleaner can effectively be used to both prevent and treat ear infections in dogs, making it one of the most versatile dog ear infection treatment solutions on the market today. It is most effective when it is used 2-3 times per day.

Best of all, it provides instant, sting-free, odorless relief to your pup without relying on pesky antibiotics or steroids. In addition to this, it’s not oily or sticky like so many ear infection medications. To treat your dog’s ear infection with

Banixx, coat the inside of their ear with the solution and then gently massage it into their ear tissue. If your pup is new to Banixx, it’s a good idea to apply Banixx via a well-moistened cotton ball. Be sure to close the ear flap and keep it gently closed with your hand as you massage it into the ear tissue.

In just a few days, you should notice that any head shaking or discomfort your dog may have been feeling will have subsided – all from just a couple days of applications with our clinically-proven solution. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple. 8oz Av retail $14.99 (June 2021).


veterinarian examines dog ear inspection

Zymox Ear Cleanser with Bio-Active Enzymes

Zymox’s Ear Cleanser with Bio-Active Enzymes is most effective when used on a weekly basis as a preventative measure against the build up of bacteria or moisture. Many owners have reported greater success when pairing this with Zymox’s Otic Pet Ear Treatment with Hydrocortisone. Owners say that this solution also leaves a pleasant, fresh scent. 4oz Av retail $11.99 (June 2021)

Zymox Veterinary Strength Dog and Cat Ear Cleanser

Zymox’s Veterinary Strength Dog and Cat Ear Cleanser is most effective at preventing ear infections when used on a twice-weekly basis. It’s made of a unique blend of lactoperoxidase, lactoferrin, and lysozyme that help inhibit microbe production within the ear canal. Users also report this solution leaving a mild scent after each cleaning. 4oz Av retail $11.99 (June 2021)

Burt’s Bees for Dogs Ear Cleanser

Burt’s Bees for Dogs Ear Cleanser is primarily used to prevent the development of ear infections. It is most effective when applied to your dog’s ear canals at least once per week. Many consumers laud this particular brand of dog ear cleaning solutions due to its heavy emphasis on using natural ingredients in its formula, particularly witch hazel which has been advertised as being able to prevent the buildup of debris. 4oz Av retail $11.98 (June 2021)

Pet MD Aloe Vera and Eucalyptus Dog Ear Wipes

Pet MD’s Aloe Vera and Eucalyptus Dog Ear Wipes are primarily used to make your dog’s ear and ear canals an unwelcoming habitat for yeast, bacteria, or other microorganisms. They are recommended for use twice per week. These wet ear wipes are infused with aloe vera and eucalyptus oil to provide your four-legged friend with a relaxing, natural solution for ear care. Additionally, these wet wipes are formulated to deliver lactic acid in order to preserve your dog’s skin’s natural acidity. 100 Wipes Av Retail $12.99 (June 2021)

When Should You Clean a Dog’s Ears?

A thorough cleaning of a dog’s ears is imperative to ensuring they’re in good overall health, but, you don’t have to drop dog ear infectioneverything right now to go spelunking in their ears.
Instead, just make ear cleaning a part of your dog’s routine grooming; that way you’re more likely to be consistent with doing it. A good rule of thumb is to clean your dog’s ears at least once per month, and check them for signs of infection, irritation, or parasites at least every other week.

However, please note that this advice may vary between breeds. Some breeds such as Cocker Spaniels and Basset Hounds will require more regular ear cleaning. Their droopy ears allow for less air flow than their counterparts who have much shorter ears, so moisture, dust, dirt and other debris can easily build up in their ear canals which may lead to a yeast infection.

Additionally, dogs that love to spend time in the water should also have their ears checked and dried frequently. The extra moisture from the water in which they swim can create optimal conditions for fungal infections to begin and spread.

Signs That Your Dog Has an Ear Infection

While some dogs may display no signs of suffering from an ear infection, other dogs may exhibit severe discomfort. If dog ear infection with veterinarianyour dog is suffering from an ear infection, you may notice that they’re tilting their head more than usual (note: ignore this advice if you’re holding a milkbone, then they’re tilting their head for a different reason).

You may also notice them shaking their head a lot, or perhaps you’ll see them stumbling around as if they’re unable to get proper footing. Ear infections affect balance with dogs just as they do with humans. Dogs with ear infections may also aggressively scratch or rub their ears against hard objects or show a reluctance to chew.

Of course, dogs with ear infections may also present more…obvious signs of ear infections. The area around their ears may lose its hair or may develop crusts or scabs. This area might also begin to swell or become very red. A foul odor emanating from your dog’s ears is a sure giveaway sign that infection is lurking!

If you suspect your dog has an ear infection, it is advisable to visit a veterinarian. There are three types of ear infections: otitis externa, media, and interna. Otitis externa refers to a type of inflammation that affects the layer of cells lining the outside of your dog’s ear canal. Otitis media and interna, however, refer to infections that affect the middle and inner ear canal.

Given that otitis media and interna can be very serious and result in deafness, facial paralysis, and vestibular disorders,canine ear infection it is important that you seek out professional veterinary advice before treating your dog’s ear infection. While cases of otitis externa can be treated with over the counter solutions, it is difficult for the untrained eye to accurately diagnose the severity or depth of an infected dog’s ear. So, remember: if you suspect your dog has an ear infection, get them assessed by a vet to ensure the infection’s root cause is taken care of.

A visit to your veterinarian is costly and time consuming which is why we advocate for dog owners to take a proactive approach. This involves a focus on minimizing the potential for dog ear infections to occur in the first place by using one of the solutions that we discussed above.

How to Clean a Dog’s Ears

For starters, you have to remember that any dog who isn’t used to getting their ears touched may be a bit skittish at you dog ear infection picturegrabbing their ears. You may have to bribe them to embark on this journey with you. And, DO make sure that the solution you choose to use is at least room temperature. If unsure, run the bottle under warn water to warm the liquid. Imagine if some.one put something COLD into your ear? Not Fun! Particularly if your ear was infected??

Offer them treats, toys, belly rubs, or whatever it is that’s going to help them relax. Making this a calm, semi-enjoyable experience for them will make this whole process go much smoother. Also, organize your supplies so that they are close by once you have embarked on the ear cleaning process; this keeps it short and sweet. That’s a winner for every-one!

Once your pup is relaxed, go ahead and proceed with the cleaning. There are two common ways to do this.

First, wet a cotton ball or gauze with an ear rinsing solution and wipe it around the outer flap of your dog’s ear. Be calm and slow with this step. Then, take a freshly moistened cotton ball/gauze and work your way from the outside of the ear in towards your dog’s ear canal, making sure not to go too deep or be too aggressive. Finally, wipe away or clean out any remaining wax or other junk from their ear canal with a third, fresh cotton ball.

long floppy ears infection

The other method involves placing a small amount of medicated ear cleaning solution in your dog’s ears, closing the

ear flap gently with your hand and then massaging the base of their ears. This action induces them to shake their heads, which is both adorable and will loosen the debris inside of their ear canals. Once this waste material has been loosened, you can gently

remove it from the inside of their ear canal with cotton or gauze. Repeat this process with a fresh cotton ball/gauze until you can wipe out the inside of their ear canal and come out with a clean cotton ball.

After you finish cleaning their ears, make sure to spoil them with treats, belly rubs, and lots of “good boys”. Enough positivereinforcement will make even the most skittish dogs receptive to modifications in their grooming habits.

If your dog has an ear infection and requires medication to be applied to their ears, complete the above process before proceeding with the following instructions.

How to Apply Medication for Dog Ear Infections

To apply medication to your dog’s ears, gently grasp the tip of their ear and pull the ear flap straight up to expose their ear canal. Then, administer the number of drops of medication your veterinarian has prescribed.

Next, while still holding the ear flap up vertically, begin to massage the base of the ear below the ear opening for approximately 30 seconds. This will allow the medication to coat your dog’s entire ear canal. Repeat this process with the other ear as needed, being sure to wipe away any debris or waste that accumulates on the flap of your dog’s ears.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.

How to Trim a Dog’s Overgrown Nails


You’re sitting down in your living room when you hear a very…antique sound.

Click clack click clack.

It almost sounds like a typewriter.

You look around and immediately identify the culprit: Fido. His nails are as long as a limousine and that sound is the sound of him walking around!

You may begin to wonder: is that okay? Should his feet be able to announce his entrance into a room like that? Or should his nails be a touch more prim and proper?

The answer is that trimming a dog’s nails is a MUST to ensure that he remain happy and healthy. We’ll go into the details of why that is, as well as how to trim this overgrown nails, in the quick blog below.


Why It’s Important to Trim Your Dog’s Nails

We know what you’re thinking: “I’ve skipped getting my nails done before and it never hurt me! You mean to tell me that my dog might be at risk of some sort of health issues if his nails don’t look good?!”

Yes!   Exactly that, actually!

Veterinarians have warned for decades now that unhealthy nails not only cause pain but can actually lead to irreversible damage to your dog. This is because neglecting to trim your dog’s nails means that the “quick” has time to grow unfettered.

As your dog’s nails get longer, his toes will begin to splay as they hit the ground, putting additional force on his foot and leg which can cause injury to the tendons over time.

Beyond the potential negative health consequences, long nails just make it uncomfortable for your pup to walk!

Since walking with long nails puts more pressure on their nail bed with each step, he’ll have to distribute his weight differently to be able to comfortably proceed. If you’ve ever had an ingrown toenail, then you should know exactly the kind of discomfort we’re talking about.


How Often Should You Trim Your Dog’s Nails?

There’s no absolute, right answer to this question. The amount of time you should let pass between each trimming depends entirely on how quickly your dog’s nails grow and how quickly they wear their nails down. Lapdogs who’s nails hardly touch the ground may need more attentive grooming, whereas dogs who are constantly out and about and grazing their nails on hard surfaces may need relatively little trimming.

However, it’s estimated that the average dog should have their nails trimmed between every three to five weeks. Similarly, some veterinarians like Dr. Whitney Miller, Head of Veterinary Medicine at PetCo, recommends that you cut your dog’s nails at least once per month.

That being said, we like to operate under a more reliable rule of thumb: you should absolutely trim your dog’s nails when their nails touch the ground while your dog is standing. We view this as a reliable indicator of when your dog’s nails are probably too long for them to walk comfortably.

Trimming a dog’s nails is not for the faint of heart.  If trimming your dog’s nails strikes fear into your heart, then– DON”T do it.  Simply take your dog to a reputable groomer or your local Veterinarian and have them do this for you.  It will be less stress and trauma for both you and your dog.


How to Trim Your Dog’s Overgrown Nails

“Okay,” you say grabbing your guillotine cutter, “Let’s do this!”

Woah, woah. Slow down there.

You can’t just chop off your dog’s overgrown nails!

At the center of their nails are a collection of nerves and blood vessels referred to as “the quick” and, since your dog’s nails are long, their quick is quite long as well. If you just go wantonly chopping off their long nails, you’ll inevitably hit the quick and cause noticeable pain to your pooch.

According to Dr. Karen Gellman of Dogs Naturally Magazine, the key to effectively and safely trimming your dog’s overgrown nails is to encourage the quick to recede by trimming your dog’s nails gradually. After making the initial trims, you should then continue to trim a little, over the course of a regular cadence, until the quick recedes to a safe length.

However, not all pups enjoy having an at-home spa day. If your dog hates having his nails trimmed, you’re going to have to teach him to overcome his fears of nail trimming. In order to do this, you’ll have to engage in what can be weeks-long desensitization training.

Start by taking out the necessary nail trimming tools and letting your dog investigate them. As your dog begins to show more comfort with the tools, reward them with treats. Repeat this process over a few days until it’s clear your dog has developed a positive association with the tools.

Once a positive association has been established, it’s time to trim. Get your dog into a comfortable position where they can be relaxed. It often helps to have a second person there to hold, pet, and distract your dog. And remember, keep those treats handy! Once he’s relaxed, lift your dog’s paw and hold it close to their body to prevent them from pulling away.

Now it’s time to locate the “quick”.

To do this, look at the nail under a good light. For dogs with lighter colored nails, you’re looking for a darker, pinkish section of the nail. When you extend your pet’s “finger” by pressing lightly on it, one at a time, his nail will protrude further and you will see the pinkish Quick WITHIN the nail tissue.

For dogs with darker colored nails, locating the quick may be difficult. According to the Washington State University Veterinary School, the quick on dark colored nails can be identified after making an initial, shallow cut.

After you’ve located the quick, it’s time to start cutting.

Once the initial cut is made, you should be able to see either a grayish-pink oval or a small black dot in the center of the nail. If you see either, you’re close to the quick so it’s time to stop cutting. Moreover, if ever in doubt as to how close you are to the quick…..STOP!

With your preferred tool in-hand, trim a very small bit of nail at a time.

You want to cut at a slight angle across the tip while following the natural shape of the nail.

While you’re cutting, be calm but confident! Trim the nails in a fairly quick and safe motion, but not too fast – you don’t want to cause any accidents.

Then, repeat with each nail!

Do, however, remember —that there’s no real rush to get all nails done at once. More skittish pups may only let you get one or two done at a time, so– be happy with that.  Please don’t rush it.

You want to make sure your pup is as comfortable as possible to avoid any sudden movements, on his part, such as pulling his paw away from you, that may cause an accident.  So it’s okay if you have to take several minutes between each nail or several days to get the whole job done.

Most importantly, make sure to offer your dog lots of praise and treats throughout the process! You want to reward their cooperation and bravery during this undoubtedly stressful moment!

Using a Dremel Tool to Trim Your Dog’s Nails

For some dogs and their owners, using a Dremel tool seems to be a safer option to trim nails..  Yes, it’s a more noisy technique and that’s something you’ll need to get your dog used to but it’s a more gradual procedure than a dog nail cutter.  It’s a process that you can use on your dog, say, once a month to keep his nails in constant, good shape and can be considerably less risky than using dog nail cutters.


What to Do if You Hit the Quick While Trimming Your Dog’s Nails

So, you’ve done it. You hit the quick.


It’s okay. It happens to the best of us.

First thing’s first: quickly reassure that scared pup who’s in pain that everything is all right by giving them lots of pets and affection.

Then, jump into First Aid mode.

You’ll want to immediately compress the wound for a minute or two with a clean cloth or paper towel to stop any bleeding that may be occurring.

If the bleeding is minor, you can rub a bar of clean, unscented soap on the wound to begin cleaning it.

If the bleeding is steady, you’ll want to wrap the wound with a compressed cloth containing ice to stave off the blood flow.

After, you should then dip the affected nail into a mixture of cornstarch and baking soda. This step induces the blood to coagulate and stop flowing. You can also purchase a mixture from your pet store designed specifically for this task—stopping the blood flow.  You can compare it with a nick or cut that a guy gets on his face when shaving.

Once bleeding stops, continue to slightly compress their wound with the iced paper towel or cloth. Then, wash the affected nail with lukewarm water and bandage it to prevent the possibility of infection.

If bleeding does not stop after 20 to 30 minutes following the above treatment steps, a veterinarian must be consulted as this indicates that proper blood clotting is not occurring.

However, if after a few days you notice that the affected nail is beginning to show signs of an infection, don’t fret: reach for Banixx!

Banixx is a clinically-proven treatment that provides instant, sting-free, odorless relief to your four-legged friend without relying on pesky antibiotics or steroids. Simply identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily, and wait. Within minutes, your dog should be happily bounding up to you ready to go to the vet for a more serious evaluation.

With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.

My Dog Ate A Bee – What Should I Do?

Oh no.!!

Fido comes bounding up to you …only…he looks hilarious. No, scratch that! He looks bloated. Only in his face, though.

You know what this means: he ate the bee.

In between stifling your laughter, the responsible pet parent in you comes back. You begin to wonder: is he going to be okay? Is there anything I should be doing to help him right now?

We’ll explore all these questions, as well as tell you some quick tricks to prevent this sort of thing from happening again in the following blog.

Why Do Dogs Eat Bees?

As natural hunters, dogs often have their interest piqued by fast-moving objects they see out in nature. For certain classes such as retrievers or pointers, they’ll excitedly begin chasing after anything they see that moves, such as large animals such as sheep or tiny insects… like bees.

Some pups are also just naturally curious by the buzzing and bumbling of bees and, as all smart animals do, decide to investigate with their mouth.

Other dogs just might enjoy it! Much like humans enjoy trying to capture butterflies with nets, some dogs may just get a kick out of capturing bees….with their teeth.

Unfortunately, many of these forays into mouth-based detective work can lead to some unpleasant (albeit hilarious looking) consequences – getting stung. As a result, some dogs who get stung may develop a phobia of bees and other flying insects. Dogs who are afraid of bees may retreat at the first sound of buzzing or they may freeze in fear at the sight of a bee.

Dogs who have been stung by bees may also develop an obsessive-compulsive behavior known as fly-snapping, which is where dogs snap at imaginary flies that aren’t there. Interestingly, some breeds such as the Bernese Mountain Dog and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel are more liable to develop this disorder.

Can Bee Stings Hurt Your Dog?

The short answer is that it depends on whether or not your dog is allergic.

Bees are a species of insect that belongs to the order known as Hymenoptera. When these types of insects sting another animal, they inject venom through the skin via their stinger.

For most animals, these sorts of incidents will only cause mild discomfort and pain.

However, if your dog is allergic to bee venom, a single sting can induce severe systemic reactions including anaphylaxis.

What are the symptoms of a bee sting?

If you’ve ever been stung by a bee, then you know how unpleasant and annoying it is. Your furry friend will likely experience many of the same symptoms that you would if you were stung by a bee.

They may begin whining in response to the pain and even start pacing as a means of trying to escape the discomfort. If they ate the bee and ingested it, they might also begin involuntarily drooling as their mouth tries to cope with the irritation.

You may also notice the affected area begin to swell or become red. It may also become hot to the touch. Your pup might also begin to paw at their face. It’s pitiful, we know!

What are the symptoms of an anaphylactic reaction?

If your dog is allergic to bee stings and has been stung, they may begin appearing very weak and woozy as they walk.

Additionally, you may notice that their breathing has become labored or heavy-handed.

Dogs who are allergic and have been stung may also experience severe swelling around their mouth, throat, neck, or head.

Finally, and most worryingly, your dog may collapse as a result of the shock.

If you notice your dog displaying any of these symptoms following their ingestion of a bee, get them to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Prompt medical treatment may be the difference between them surviving or not.

What to Do if Your Dog Eats a Bee

my dog ate a bee

First and foremost, you have to figure out whether or not your four-legged friend actually ate the bee. This is especially important if you didn’t see them swallow the bee.

To figure this out, open up their chompers and give their mouth a thorough look all around.

We mean it. Get in there.

Inspect their gums, tongue, the back of their throat, the top of their mouth, everywhere. What you’re looking for is two things: the bee carcass, and their stinger.

If you find their stinger, for goodness sake– do not pull it out – that can actually push out more venom into your dog’s system. Instead, gently scrape the stinger with a flat surface by sliding it in a single direction out of your dog’s mouth.

If you suspect that your dog ate a bee but don’t have the evidence to prove it, the best thing you can do is closely monitor them over the next few hours. If you notice your dog spontaneously vomiting or having trouble breathing, take them to your veterinarian for further evaluation.

If you suspect your dog is going into or is about to go into anaphylactic shock, get them to a veterinarian immediately. While some people on the internet claim that just giving your dog an antihistamine is sufficient, please–do not listen to this advice. Your veterinarian should evaluate your furry friend so that they can prescribe the right medication given your dog’s condition.

In the meantime, give them lots of love! Remember how painful and frightening your first bee sting was? Now imagine how tough that would have been if your mom or dad hadn’t been there to comfort you!

How to Prevent Your Dog From Eating Bees

my dog ate a bee

Luckily, it’s not as though bees are just invading our homes. There’s plenty of things you can do to minimize the chances of your dog having a second lunch made entirely of bees.

The first is to eliminate any environmental factors that are encouraging bees to gather near your home. Remove any plants that attract bees such as lavender or roses, or better yet, plant some flowers or herbs that naturally repel pests such as mint or rosemary.

Additionally, consider changing your walking routes! We know – Sparky loves that one col-de-sac with the kids playing outside all the time. But if that particular route is just littered with bees or even beehives, it’s maybe best to avoid it.

Also, you may need to invest some time in teaching your furry buddy how to not be afraid of bees (which is something we all could use some work on). Counter-conditioning may be of particular help in training them to remain calm around these buzzy pests.

However, if your dog just thinks that eating bees is the bee’s knees, then you may need to muzzle them when they’re going to be in environments where they can eat them.

The best thing to remember is to be patient with your dog after they eat a bee.

Being stung by a bee can be traumatic enough, so imagine how scary accidentally eating one of those suckers must be!

If your dog eats a bee, monitor them for any especially nasty reactions, give them lots of love while they recover, and remember to take a photo of their hilariously inflated face to get those sweet, sweet likes on Facebook.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.


Dog Park Dos and Donts

dog park


Your dog is giving you that look again, isn’t he? He keeps staring at this leash, then at your car keys, then at the window, back to your car keys, back to his leash, then back to you. It’s clear what he wants: he just wants to go see his friends at the park, mom.

While you’re sympathetic to his want to socialize, you may also be wondering what going to the dog park means for you. Are there certain rules you have to follow? Are there there ways your dog is expected to behave? What does being a good dog park goer entail?

We’ll break all that down and more in the following article. Let’s get started!


Make Sure Your Dog is Vaccinated

dog park etiquetteBefore you even consider bringing your dog to the park, you have to make sure that he’s gotten his shots. This is both for the safety of other dogs in the park as well as their owners. In order to be considered fully up-to-date, your dog will need to have been vaccinated for rabies, kennel cough, leptospirosis, dog flu, hepatitis, parvo and and distemper. Additionally, the American Kennel Club recommends that dogs spending time in dog parks should be treated for fleas, ticks, and heartworms.

This may seem like an exhaustive list, but we can never be too safe when trying to keep our fellow four-legged friends and their pet parents safe from infectious agents. Before taking Sparky to the park, consult with your veterinarian to hash out a treatment plan that’s right for your dog. They may also suggest further steps to keep your dog and everyone else at the park safe.

Leash Your Dog (When Indicated)

dog in parkThis is a no-brainer, but it needs to be said: when you’re at a dog park, your dog and the other pups are all guests that must respect the rules of the park. That means, when you’re in a designated leash area, you must leash your dog. Beyond being compliant, it’s also just a common-sense safety measure. You don’t want your unleashed pup to go up to dogs who don’t feel comfortable enough with that level of friendliness. It can get ugly – fast. Not even mentioning the potential for dog-dog confrontation, an unleashed dog can pose a hazard to themselves by running away from the park and into the street.

To maximize safety, keep your dog on a leash when you first get to a dog park. Let your dog become acquainted with their surrounding area (and other dogs) from afar. Plus, you can stop them from picking up and eating any trash or litter from the ground. However, once you’re in the off-leash area, you should absolutely remove their leash so long as you feel it’s safe to do so. Off-leash dogs can more easily distinguish body language cues in other dogs that indicate their willingness to play than on-leash dogs,

Go In With a Preventative Mindset (but Know How to Take Charge)

While knowing how to take charge in a situation that is spiraling out of control is paramount to guaranteeing your dog’s safety, you should really aim to minimize the chance of such a situation from occurring in the first place. Luckily, there are a variety of ways for you to do this.

dog park rulesThe first step is to keep moving. This (hopefully) forces your dog to keep checking your position and follow you. However, it’s also important to be able to recall your dog if they’re too busy smelling the grass. In the event that they don’t come when called, don’t be afraid to go up and grab their collar. Be warned: if you have not trained them to be receptive to having their collar grabbed, this can quickly become a hassle.

That being said, you may want to let Fido go off and play with other dogs without mom and dad right there at his side. We understand. But that doesn’t mean that you can let Fido out of your sight. In fact, it’s imperative that you keep a close eye on your furry friend at all times. You need to moderate your dog’s interactions to ensure that any play remains friendly and to make sure your pup isn’t bothering some dog who just came to enjoy his one day off from.. Being a dog at home.

Speaking of interactions with other dogs: you need to know the signs of when play has turned sour if you’re going to keep your dog safe. It doesn’t matter if your dog is the hap-hap-happiest dog in the whole wide world – chances are, he might just catch another dog when they’re feeling ruff or just not in the mood to socialize. There are a few tell-tale signs that a strange dog is not in the mood to play with your dog: their stature will be tensed up, their head will be held high and lurched forward, their lips may be snarled, and their ears will be pointed up or forward.

If your dog begins to scrap with another pooch, you need to also know how to put a stop to it immediately. One of the most successful methods of breaking up two fighting dogs is known as the “wheelbarrow method”. This method sees two people grab the back legs of their dogs and pull them away from one another in a curving motion; this second part keeps the dogs from biting the person holding their legs.

CHowever, if one of the dogs has latched onto the other, it’s important that you break their grip before pulling them apart as this can harm the injured dog. To break a dog’s grip, slide a break stick into their mouth and towards the back of their throat and then twist. This should make them release their grip and make it safe to separate the dueling parties.

Clean Up After Your Pup

dog with diarrhea but acting fine Look, it’s common courtesy: if your dog poops, please clean up after him. Just come prepared to scoop, bag, and dispose of his waste. Not only is leaving his waste everywhere really unpleasant to look at (and smell), but it’s also unsanitary!

Just be a good steward of your local dog park and help keep it clean. If you wouldn’t want someone to just leave their dog’s feces on your yard, why on Earth would you think it’s okay to leave an entire park infested with your dog’s droppings?

Just pick it up! A blog shouldn’t have to tell you this!

Be Packed

Like any day you might spend at the human park, you should come prepared with the appropriate supplies to ensure a good, safe time can be had by all. That means coming to the park equipped with a travel bowl and water and even some dog treats (just keep them in the car and out of sight of the other dogs, lest you be swarmed by hungry eyes).

Also, bringing along a doggy first aid kit isn’t a bad idea, either – you never know what sorts of shenanigans your pup might get up to that require you to render aid. Finally, given that more and more dog parks are being built with dog wash stations, you might want to bring along some dog shampoo and a towel too if your pup likes to get dirty and play around in the muck with his other four-legged companions.


Take Puppies

puppy treatment for ringworms While socialization is an important part of raising any well-adjusted pooch, the dog park is not the place to do it. Puppies experience a critical socialization period from birth until they’re about four months old. During this time, they gain their first impressions of the world around them and will take these lessons into adulthood. It’s crucial that you expose them to many different kinds of dogs, people, and really as many other new animals as possible during this time so that they’re not afraid or skittish around them when they’re older. However, you must introduce them to these new beings in a controlled setting where he can be comforted and assured that what’s being introduced to him is good.

At a dog park, there’s very little you can control. Sure, most dog parks are filled with responsible pet parents who would know better than to let their hulking Great Dane trample over your fur baby. However, it only takes a handful of bad experiences with dogs who weren’t being watched correctly to transform the dog park into a torturous place for your pup.

Allow Your Dog to Pester or Bully Other Dogs

dog running to burn off energy There’s a whole lot we can say about this, but we think it’s best to keep it simple: if you wouldn’t want your kid to behave a certain way with another kid, chances are you shouldn’t let your dog behave the same way. When you see your dog and a pal ganging up on another, smaller or older dog, stop them immediately! Dogs who bully other dogs kill the vibe of the whole park and ruin the experience for other dogs.

Similarly, if you see your dog about to mount another dog, stop them! While it may be just another behavior in their repertoire, this move isn’t likely to be welcomed by all dogs in the park. If you notice your dog is trying to mount another dog, body-block them to stop the behavior and repeat as many times as it takes them to get the message. You may even have to take your dog outside the park to calm down for a minute if they’re too excited. However, don’t be afraid to do this: the other dogs and their parents will appreciate it greatly!

Take Unneutered Dogs or Dogs Who Are in Heat

Happy Dog Unneutered or intact male dogs who are over the age of one shouldn’t come to the dog park. At this point in their life, dogs are becoming fully mature and may begin displaying more dominant, aggressive behavior rooted in their desires to attract a mate. This same behavior can then begin to show up in unwelcome settings, such as at a dog park with dogs who are just trying to play. If you notice your dog is beginning to act aggressively towards other dogs, consider getting them neutered as soon as you can.

In that same vein, it is extremely ill-advised to take an in-tact (unspayed) female dog who is in season (in heat) to a dog park. For starters, you probably aren’t looking to breed your female with an unknown dog who can’t control himself. Also, if other in-tact males are in the dog park, your female may cause them to stir up trouble and cause fighting. When in doubt, just remember: if your dog has not had their baby making capacities reduced, keep them away from the dog park.

Disobey Size Regulations

types of dog ears We get it. Your little floof got his name, Scrappy, because he’s able to hold his own against your bigger dogs during playtime. Thus, you reason, it makes no sense that he should be partitioned away from his bigger brothers during their visit to the dog park. However, there’s plenty of valid reasons why your small dog shouldn’t mingle with the beefier canines in the park.

For starters, even small dogs who are friendly with all the other big dogs can easily get hurt if they’re in and around a group of much larger dogs who are playing. Not every big dog is agile enough to leap out of the way of a small dog who is bouncing around, and not every small dog is aware enough of their surroundings to get out of the way of inbound big dogs. It’s naive to believe that strange animals will accommodate our pets’ size.

Additionally, and perhaps more crucially, small dogs don’t really stand a chance against larger breeds if a fight were to break out. Bigger dogs are simply stronger and more able to seriously and quickly damage a small dog. This is not to say that big dogs are inherently prone to preying upon and harming small dogs. It simply means that big dogs have numerous advantages in a fight.

Regardless of whether you practically live at the dog park or it’s about to be your first time, we hope that this short explainer of dog park etiquette helps make your experience safer and more joyful.

We know that, as a caring pet parent, you want what’s best for your pup. We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.


  • https://www.fitbark.com/blog/dog-park-dos-and-donts/
  • https://www.wvlt.tv/content/news/The-vaccines-your-dog-needs-before-going-to-a-dog-park–480539161.html
  • https://www.dogsavvylosangeles.com/blog/dog-park-etiquette
  • https://sitmeanssit.com/dog-training-mu/austin-dog-training/how-to-tell-if-a-dog-is-being-aggressive/
  • https://www.ccspca.com/blog-spca/education/how-to-break-up-a-dog-fight/
  • https://moderndogmagazine.com/articles/why-puppies-and-dog-parks-don-t-mix/101482
  • https://shewhisperer.com/dog-park-etiquette/

Why Does My Cat Get Hairballs?

cat asthma

Oh no. You hear it. The tell-tale signs of a hairball coming on. Your cat is hacking, gagging, and retching. Almost as quickly as it began, your cat goes back to their business, and a nice, shiny hairball awaits you. “Great…” you think to yourself.

As you go to scoop it up and put it in the trash, you may begin to wonder: “why does my cat get hairballs? What causes them? Is my furry pal okay? I know I wouldn’t be okay if I just hacked up what looks like a small animal…”

In this short article we’ll review what hairballs are, why cats get them, whether or not you should be concerned by them, and how to prevent them altogether!

What Are Hairballs?

coughing cat Hairballs, technically called trichobezoars, are clumps of hair that accumulate in the stomach or esophagus that go undigested. They’re almost certainly going to match the color of your cat’s fur, only they’ll likely be a bit darker because of food and other gastric secretions in her digestive system.

Despite their name, hairballs are rarely round like little balls. Instead, they’re often slender and cylindrical, almost like a cigar or a sausage. They’re usually about an inch long and half an inch thick, though some can grow to be up to five inches in length! Talk about a hairy situation.

Why Does My Cat Get Hairballs?

sneezing cat They may be unsightly and a tad nauseating to think about, but it’s important to know that hairballs are really just a part of life. As your cat grooms themselves, tiny, hook-like structures on their tongue latch onto loose and dead hair. Then, that hair is swallowed and the majority of it passes without problems through their digestive tract. However, some of that hair can also sit in the stomach where it begins to accumulate more and more hair and voila: you’ve got yourself a hairball.

According to Dr. Guglielmino, an associate veterinarian at The Cat Doctor feline health clinic in Seattle, kittens and young cats are less likely to develop hairballs than mature cats. This is because young cats and kittens are less experienced with grooming, whereas mature cats spend a good portion of their days licking their coats. Unfortunately, it follows then that cats with long hair – such as Persians and Maine Coons – are at a substantially higher risk for developing hairballs than short-haired breeds.

Are Hairballs a Health Concern to Your Cat?

Again, it’s important to remember that hairballs are common occurrences with cats. In fact, Dr. Richard Goldstein, DVM, an associate professor of small animal medicine at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, claims that it’s common for cats to regurgitate hairballs once every week or so. However, regular hairballs or daily hairballs may be signs of an underlying problem.

cat in blanket If you notice your cat is producing an inordinate amount of hairballs, it’s best to get them checked out by a veterinarian. Your vet will likely want to run some blood tests that can make sure your cat’s kidneys and liver are working correctly, as well as to make sure there are no underlying conditions that may be causing your cat to produce more hairballs than normal.

Any number of health disorders may cause excessive hairball production. Conditions like inflammatory bowel disease or stomach / intestinal cancer can negatively affect the movement of things through the digestive tract, which may result in excessive hairball production. Additionally, conditions that affect the fur or skin can cause your cat to feel itchy and thus groom more often which can produce more hairballs than normal.

When you’re at the vet, they may also want to conduct imaging tests like x-rays or ultrasounds to ensure there’s no blockages. This last point is especially important, as hairball blockages in the intestine or esophagus can quickly become life-threatening to your cat. The treatment plan your vet recommends will be based on the cause of your cat’s hairballs.

If there is no clear underlying condition that is causing your cat to produce excessive hairballs, your veterinarian may recommend that your cat start taking a hairball treatment gel known as laxatone. These gels serve as a lubricant that can help move things along in your cat’s digestive tract.

Additionally, your veterinarian may suggest your cat begin on an over-the-counter diet formulated to prevent hairballs. A diet focused on controlling hairball production will be rich in fiber that helps hair move through your cat’s digestive system while also nourishing your cat’s luscious coat. However, if the problem persists, your vet may also propose that your cat begin a specialized, prescription diet that will more aggressively treat the problem.

If a minor intestinal blockage is present, your vet may recommend that your cat take a veterinary-grade laxative. However, you should never give your cat a laxative without first being recommended to by a veterinarian. Your vet may also recommend surgery if they believe no other methods will be sufficient in removing the blockage.

Can You Prevent Hairballs?

cat sneezing Absolutely! There are three methods we know of that can help prevent the development of hairballs. The first is to groom your cat very regularly with a quality de-shedding tool. Combing or brushing your pointy-eared buddy each day can not only effectively minimize the amount of loose hair your cat can lap up, but it can also be a fun bonding experience. Second, you may also want to train your cat to partake in other activities in their down time rather than licking their coat, such as playing with new toys.

Finally, if you notice that your cat is beginning to show signs of irritating skin infections that may cause them to excessively groom themselves, consider reaching for Banixx! This clinically-proven solution provides fast-acting, sting-free, odorless relief for a variety of unpleasant maladies without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. Simply identify the affected area, apply Banixx once or twice daily, and in no time your cat will start feeling better. With Banixx, relief really can be that simple.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or ringworm, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.


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  • https://www.hillspet.com/cat-care/healthcare/why-hairballs-in-cats
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  • https://www.banixx.com/for-cats/

How Old is My Dog in Dog Years?

Quick. How old is your dog?

No, not in human years. In dog years. You probably thought— well, compute whatever their human-years age is and multiply by seven.

And we totally understand where the instinct to use that formula comes from. Unfortunately, recent scientific research reveals that this handy rule-of-thumb is more pop wisdom than actual science.

In reality, calculating your dog’s true age in dog years requires some pretty intense math, but the reward is being able to know how far along in their life your four-legged friend really is.

In this article, we break down where the myth of comparing seven dog years to every human year comes from, how to accurately measure a dog’s age, and how to tell your dog is getting older.

Where Does the 7:1 Ratio About Age in Dog Years Come From?

happy willyIn reality, nobody really knows for sure where this idea comes from. There are multiple potential origins of this mythological 7:1 ratio. The first potential genesis of this ratio comes in the form of an etching on the floor of Westminster Abbey completed in 1268 that postulated a ratio of dog-to-human years that was closer to 9:1. This theory was then bolstered in the eighteenth century when French naturalist Georges Buffon noted that dogs lived between ten and twelve human years compared to the human life span of 90 to 100 years.

It wasn’t until the 20th century that a rhetoric emerged about dog years even being a subject of interest. In the 1950s, it became a rule-of-thumb that most humans lived to 70 while most dogs lived to about ten years old. As a result, a shorthand ratio of 7:1 entered pet owners’ lexicons. This ratio was then enshrined in popular media through a variety of mediums, most notably through a series of Alpo commercials in the 1970s that ran the tagline: “Duchess is 13. That’s like 91 to you and me.”

However, almost as soon as it entered the collective brain, this ratio came under intense scrutiny from veterinarians, animal researchers, and gerontologists. In 1953, French researcher A. Lebeau categorized life-stage markers that humans and dogs share in common – those being puberty, adulthood, and maximum lifespan. His work also uncovered the remarkable fact that, in a dog’s first year of life, a dog will age between 15 to 20 times faster than a human, a ratio that shrinks considerably thereafter to a ratio of about five to one (human to dog years).

So, that still leaves the question: if science has exposed this common saying as nothing more than popular mythology, why is still so persistent?

Well, according to Assistant Professor of Veterinary Medicine at Kansas State University William Fortney, it’s likely because of advertisers. “My guess is it was a marketing ploy,” says Fortney, “a way to educate the public on how fast a dog ages compared to a human, predominantly from a health standpoint. It was a way to encourage owners to bring in their pets at least once a year.”

How Should We Measure Age in Dog Years?

So, now that we know that the 7:1 ratio isn’t based on…anything at all, how should we, as pet owners, go about guessing the age of our pooch pals? Well, the first step is to remember that not all dogs are the same.

As stated by aging expert David J. Waters, “Eight years in one breed is not equivalent to eight years in another.” And we know this already. It’s common knowledge at this point that small dogs tend to live longer than big dogs, meaning that a Dachshund who is one human year old is likely younger in dog years than a one year old Great Dane.

So, if we’re trying to get an accurate understanding of our dog’s age that can account for the variable of their breed, we should try and utilize calculation methods that take these differences into their methodology. One such method like this was crafted by researchers at the University of California – San Diego School of Medicine.

After comparing changes in DNA over time between groups of humans and Labrador Retrievers, the researchers concluded that the most accurate method of translating a dog’s age into human years was to multiply the natural logarithm of the dog’s age by 16 and adding 31 to that figure. The formula looks like this: (human_age = 16ln(dog_age)+31).

“[This research] validates what a lot of other researchers have been saying,” said Casal, a professor of medical genetics, pediatrics and reproduction at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine.

Luckily, you don’t need to pull out your old graphing calculator from high school calculus. There are plenty of handy online calculators that utilize this formula already and are much more intuitive to use. What even is a natural log anyway? Aren’t all logs natural?

Of course, if computation isn’t really what you came to a pet blog to do (I mean, who can blame you?), then there is an even simpler formula you can use. Just remember that the first year of a dog’s life is equal to roughly 15 human years. Then, their second year of life is equal to about nine human years. Every year after is equal to about four or five human years.

Why Do Small Dogs Age Slower than Big Dogs?

This is another one of those questions where there are plenty of answers that sound right, but there’s just no conclusive evidence on the matter.

According to evolutionary biologist and Professor of Biosciences at the University of Melbourne Mark Elgar, “Large dogs die young mainly because they age quickly.” Professor Elgar’s theory is backed by research, particularly a study of 74 dog breeds in North America which concluded that the driving force behind the trade-off between size and lifespan was a strong positive relationship between size and the rate at which the dog ages.

But why? Why do big dogs actually age faster than their micro counterparts?

Well, according to evolutionary biologist and researcher Cornelia Kraus at the University of Gottingen in Germany, it may have something to do with their hormonal system. Kraus and her team analyzed demographic data, including age and cause of death, for more than 50,000 dogs across 74 breeds.

What they found was that small dogs have lower concentrations of the growth hormone IGF-1, which has been linked to higher likelihood of death from age-related diseases in organisms with high concentrations of it in their blood. However, this finding alone isn’t enough to cement this theory as fact.

Cynthia Kenyon, a researcher on aging at the University of California at San Francisco, suggests that one way to test the hypothesis that greater concentrations of IGF-1 cause large breeds to die younger would be to take a small dog and give it high levels of IGF-1 while it’s young so that it grows to be large. Then, while it’s an adult, try to extract the excess IGF-1 and see if it has a long life.

Of course, there are other theories about why small dogs live longer and age slower than big dogs. According to the American Kennel Club, some researchers believe that bigger dogs are more susceptible to diseases caused by abnormal cell growth like cancer due to the fact that they progress from puppyhood to adulthood much faster.

Whatever the reason is, it’s important that you as a pet owner be able to identify signs of aging in your pup. Just as it’s important to be able to identify nasty skin infections, ringworm, mange, hot spots, or other uncomfortable maladies that may be making your pooch feel ruff. Luckily, if you spot any of the above, you have access to one of the most powerful, clinically-proven antidotes to common ailments: Banixx Pet care!

If you notice your furry friend suffering from any of the above afflictions, just identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily, and wait. Soon after application, your dog should feel significant or total relief from whatever fungal or bacterial infection they’re suffering from without needing to rely on pesky antibiotics or steroids. With Banixx, relief is simple.

What Are the Signs of Aging in Dogs?

Everybody ages, including your four-legged friend. The adorable puppy you snuggled has now become a fully-grown dog, and they may have even begun to show it. Their muzzle grays. Their gait becomes a bit more stilted. Their endless walks have been replaced by short jaunts. Eventually, the evidence may become undeniable: they’re a senior dog.

Of course, some signs are a bit more subtle and, to the untrained eye, may not be identified as signs of aging. For example, some senior dogs’ eyes may become cloudy or milky looking. While this symptom of old age is relatively common and often doesn’t affect their vision, it’s still important to take note of as this may be a sign of cataracts.

Also, you may have heard of puppy breath, but wait till you smell elderly dog breath. More common in dogs who have poor dental health, sudden awful-smelling breath can be a sign of any number of oral maladies including gum disease, tooth decay, or oral infections. As dogs age, their immune system weakens and thus makes them more susceptible to infections. If your dog suddenly presents with truly rancid-smelling breath, it may be time to take them for a dental cleaning and dental exam.

Additionally, you may notice that your dog’s body becomes dotted with new lumps and bumps. Thankfully, many of these randomly-appearing bumps are likely to be benign, fatty tumors known as lipomas. However, it’s never a bad idea to get a second opinion on any newly-sprouted lumps. Remember: many cancers can be effectively treated if caught early enough.

Finally, there’s also the changes that may come to your dog’s mental faculties that you should watch out for. According to a study at the National Center for Biotechnology Information, between 14% and 35% of dogs over eight years old suffer from a type of dementia known as canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome. Changes that may occur as a result of canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome include fear of familiar people, increased barking, house soiling, or a marked change in activity levels.

If your dog is eight years old or older and presenting any of the above symptoms, consider getting them evaluated for canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome. While there is no cure for this disease, your veterinarian may be able to provide you with therapeutic options and medications that can help your dog.

Of course, maybe your dog isn’t even near eight. Maybe they’re just now entering their early twenties (in dog years) and old age is a long time away.

Regardless of whether they’re twenty or 120 in dog years, one thing’s for sure: they’ll always be your fur baby.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your dog ever gets any cuts, abrasions, ear infections or hot spots, we hope you keep Banixx Pet Care in mind.


Q & A with Ariel Grald

ariel grald

In 2019, Ariel Grald, an international 5* event rider and her horse, Leamore Master Plan or “Simon,” finished in the top 10 at the Land Rover Burghley Horse Trials in Stamford, United Kingdom. This finish earned the pair the distinction and recognition as the highest placed finish for Burghley first timers. They also had success in 2019 at their 5* debut at the Land Rover Kentucky Three Day Event finishing in 12th place. Ariel and Simon’s plans to return to international competition in 2020 were put on hold as the worldwide pandemic took center stage. As equestrian events and competitions cautiously and optimistically move forward in 2021, Ariel and Simon are working to successfully return to international competition.

ariel grald horse

Ariel Grald and Leamore Master Plan. Photo Credit: Britt Gillis

Q. You did very well at Burghley. Tell us about your experience.

A. Competing at Burghley was an incredible experience. It’s a massive venue. Burghley House is stunning and the estate is so scenic. But there’s a lot of terrain. Even just hacking from the stables up to the dressage and show jumping arena is a decent workout. The cross country course is pretty relentless. You’re going up and down hill a lot. You’re always riding over changes in terrain so that was very challenging. When I competed at the Kentucky 5*, I wasn’t as aware of the people watching along the ropes of the cross-country course because it was a bit more open. There are way more people at Burghley, that was the biggest thing I noticed. Some of the galloping lanes are a bit narrow and some parts are a little bit more twisty and there are spectators everywhere. They don’t have a big grandstand like at the Kentucky Horse Park, but there is stadium seating that goes all the way around all four sides of the grass arena where the dressage and show jumping is held. It’s pretty intimidating!

Q. Do you have a horse you are going to take to the Land Rover Kentucky event this year?

A. We are not going to Kentucky this year, unfortunately. With the uncertainty with Covid and everything I had made a different plan for my top horse, Simon, because I’m really trying to get him back overseas. We are aiming him for another event a little later in the spring hopefully, in Germany.

Q. Why are you pointing him towards Europe? What’s the difference?

A. It’s for his experience and for my experience and for the international scene. Just looking ahead, we are trying to make the U.S. Championship teams and you’re always going to be traveling, either to Tokyo or to the World Games that are in Italy in 2022. Anytime I can go to a new venue and deal with the stress of traveling for both of us riding in arenas that we haven’t been to, riding on cross country and show jump courses that we haven’t been to is to keep building our experience.

Q. Every industry was impacted by Covid last year. Some things implemented out of this worldwide emergency, such as Zoom and working from home, are most likely here to stay. Is there anything in the equine industry impacted by Covid that’s also here to stay?

A. After horse trials were shut down for several months at the start of the pandemic, we were fortunate to resume competitions in the summer. While major 5* events such as Burghley and Fair Hill were cancelled, I feel very lucky that we were able to finish out most of the event season. As we all hope to return to some version of normal, I think the enhanced use of technology for communication will stay. For example, show venues send out mass texts to riders, grooms, and others regarding schedule updates and other important information. Also, many professionals turned to virtual lessons to allow people in different areas to train together and I imagine this may continue in the future. Many trainers share tips and ideas on social media by uploading videos and giving educational talks. I’m impressed at how many people throughout all aspects of the sport used technology to overcome logistical issues caused by Covid.

Q. Everybody has their own riding styles, especially when you get to upper levels. You like to work with each horse as an individual. How does that make a difference in your riding?

A. I feel like I am able to really get to know all the horses that I have. I spend so much time with each individual horse that I think I end up developing a really good partnership with each one. Some like a little more rein pressure, others like little more leg pressure. I know what support they need from me and how they like to be ridden or the warm up routine for dressage. So I’m lucky that I get to spend enough time with each horse every day when we’re training at home and to really learn about their personalities. I like sort of quirkier horses. I don’t mind ones that are a little bit fresh or a little bit higher energy. I actually prefer that ride. So in having some that are a little more sensitive you really have to spend that time to get to know them.

Q. What’s your approach when competing in straight show jumping versus to the show jumping phase of eventing?

A. I like to bring my dressage saddle and I still go do flat work with the horses to get them ready at the show venue. Some of my event horses can be strong and unfocused if I go straight to jumping them. They are used to having their dressage test and then either going to cross-country or show jumping next. It’s a good time to practice different warm up strategies– which jumps I’m going to jump, how many and how high before I go in the ring. A lot of eventers take their event horses to jumper shows to work on how to best prepare them and it’s a good way to work on those technical show jumping skills. It’s useful to go to a jumper show for several days, jump multiple courses and not have the pressure of being at a horse trials.

Q. What do you like most about Banixx products for your horses’ routine care?

A. I’ve used all of them but I think we use the shampoo the most. The wound care cream and spray I use to treat particular issues of course if a horse has a cut. The wound cream we use a lot on their legs. Often if they have some irritation on their heels or anywhere on their legs we use the spray for that. So those two products I use to treat certain issues. The shampoo we use routinely. If their skin is in pretty good condition we wash their legs a couple times a week with it. We just got back from Florida where the horses are always getting leg scurf and funk. So being able to use the shampoo on their legs and do the full leg soak for 10 minutes and wash it off, that’s a really important part of daily care of the horses in those environments like Florida where it’s humid and where the horses are quite likely to get skin irritation.

Q. Why do you choose Banixx versus other products?

A. I think their products are effective and I have many horses with sensitive skin. My top horse, Simon, has four white socks. His pink skin is very easily irritated. I like that Banixx has the collagen in it and the way the formula is made it doesn’t over dry or doesn’t cause further skin irritation. It actually helps soothe their skin. My horses wear boots daily for either schooling and competition, and are often bandaged or poulticed after they gallop and jump. This means we wash their legs frequently so I have to be careful which shampoos we use. Some other products are harsh and make their skin worse and more angry. But Banixx really, really helps.

Ariel Grald is based out of Setters’ Run Farm owned by Annie Eldridge in Vass, North Carolina. For more information, visit arielgrald.com or settersrunfarm.com.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your horse ever gets any cuts, abrasions, scratches or white line disease, we hope you keep Banixx Horse & Pet Care in mind.

Wolf Teeth in Horses

wolf teeth in horses

If you take a quick peek into your horse’s mouth, you’ll immediately be struck by just how different their teeth are from our own. All the typical types of teeth including incisors, premolars, and molars are there. However, just in front of the premolars you may notice there are stubbly, blunt teeth that don’t seem to have too much reason for being there.

These are known as equine wolf teeth. And, before you ask, no: they don’t have any relation to dogs, wolves, or other canines. Regardless of why they’re called wolf teeth, one question persists among horse owners: what are you supposed to do with wolf teeth? Leave them in? Pull them out at first sight?

To help settle this question, we’ve written up the following blog where we’ll explore what wolf teeth are, what problems they cause, what you should do about them, and how to ensure a safe, comfortable recovery.

What are Equine Wolf Teeth?

While “wolf teeth” might sound like some sort of horrible disfigurement or disorder, they’re actually completely natural. Wolf teeth are small, often pointed or peg-shaped teeth that grow just in front of a horse’s first premolars. Technically, they’re known as a horse’s first premolars since they erupt in the mouth between five months and twelve months of age.

wolf teethWolf teeth belong to a category of teeth known as brachydont teeth, meaning they erupt all at once and stop growing upon full eruption. This is different from the behavior of the other class of teeth, known as hypsodont teeth, which erupt gradually throughout a horse’s lifetime. A horse’s incisors, premolars, and molars are hypsodont teeth.

However, unlike their incisors, premolars, and molars, wolf teeth don’t really have any use for modern horses; they’re a vestigial structure left over from horse’s ancestors. Fossil records show that equus caballus, the much smaller, ancient precursor to the modern horse, survived on a very different diet than today’s horses, often eating low bushes and shrubs. As a result, their mouths were built to hold seven teeth in each dental arcade.

As their diets evolved to include more grass, horses grew bigger and, consequently, their teeth increased in size to provide larger surface area for chewing and grinding. When this happened, the 1st cheek tooth, known today as the wolf tooth, was no longer necessary and gradually disappeared across successive generations. However, as with humans’ wisdom teeth, many horses still develop wolf teeth to this day. While more commonly reported in male horses, they can develop in both sexes.

Additionally, while it’s more common to see wolf teeth develop on the upper jaws, they can erupt on the lower and upper jaws. A wolf tooth can erupt on a single side of the mouth or both, and they can be uni- or multi-rooted. Sometimes, wolf teeth can even fail to erupt at all (this is known as blind wolf teeth).

What Problems do Wolf Teeth Cause?

horse teethAs with humans’ wisdom teeth, many horses live just fine with their wolf teeth fully intact and without the need for extraction. However, similarly with young humans, many horse parents want to disable the potential development of biting issues that may arise from leaving wolf teeth in place.

Furthermore, as horse owners want to maximize their horse’s comfort with a bit placed in their mouth, it may seem advisable to remove wolf teeth. This is because wolf teeth contain nerves and are situated in and around highly innervated gums and bone near the periodontal ligament. If the bit makes contact with the tooth, it might induce pain which may cause the horse to act up in response. In fact, any pressure that’s placed on a horse’s cheeks is capable of rubbing against these teeth and causing pain.

What Should be Done About Wolf Teeth

Because wolf teeth are both not necessary and may interfere with bit placement in performance horses, many horse trainers opt to have them removed as early as is feasible. However, according to Glennon Mays, DVM and Clinical Assistant Professor at Texas A&M’s College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences (CVM), one should not just jump to extraction as the only viable option once wolf teeth are noted.

wolf teeth horse“Even with this reputation as a negative, unneeded component of the mouth, owners do not always remove the teeth, especially in horses that do not have erupted wolf teeth or in horses that are not used for performance purposes,” says Mays. “Removing wolf teeth is a decision you should make with your veterinarian. The procedure is not particularly dangerous, but there are risks with any surgical procedure. There is the possibility of severing or damaging the palatine artery which can cause a great deal of blood loss. Or in horses with large, curved wolf teeth, the curvature of the tooth increases the possibility for complications.”

If you and your veterinarian decide to leave your horse’s wolf teeth in, you should remember that the recovery process from extraction will become substantially harder on your horse as they age. However, if you do decide to extract the teeth, you should feel comfort in knowing that the procedure is relatively quick and easy.

What is the Extraction Process Like?

The process of removing wolf teeth is relatively simple and usually requires sedation with a local anesthetic applied to the affected area. During extraction, the mouth will first be cleansed and then flushed to lower the chance of infection. Then, the gums and ligaments around the tooth will be loosened with a tool called an elevator which allows the tooth to be removed with forceps. Due to the variety of shapes and sizes of wolf teeth, the procedure time can vary from just a few minutes to an hour.

horse wolf teethBecause of how minimally invasive most wolf teeth extraction procedures are, aftercare tends to be just as minimal. However, some reports on wolf teeth extraction advocate for not feeding hay, straw, or grain concentrates for up to twelve hours after removal. Additionally, some equine veterinarians may recommend that owners irrigate the extraction site twice daily for a few days after the teeth are pulled to maintain a clean oral environment and minimize the chance of infection. Also, it is advisable that you do not ride or train your horse for at least 24 hours after extraction to minimize their discomfort.

To ensure an easy, complication-free recovery process, make sure that your horse is up to date on their vaccinations, most specifically tetanus. Horses are highly susceptible to the toxins from the tetanus bacteria, clostridium tetani, leading to many tetanus infections in horses becoming fatal.

The types of wounds in which the anaerobic tetanus bacteria thrive are small, hidden puncture wounds where there is little to no oxygen. This means that the many small cuts or gashes that may be present after a wolf tooth extraction offer the perfect environment for this nasty infection to sprout. Adequate protection against tetanus infections includes an initial vaccination, followed by a second booster four to six weeks later, and then recurring vaccinations every two to four years.

Thankfully, the process for protecting your horse against an opportunistic infection such as tetanus is as easy. In that same vein, so is protecting your horse against a variety of fungal and bacterial infections. Just reach for Banixx Horse & Pet care products!

Banixx works to provide instantaneous sting-free, odorless relief without relying on pesky steroids or antibiotics. If your horse is suffering from Scratches, Rain rot, Thrush, White line disease, or another infection, just identify the affected area, apply Banixx twice daily, and wait. In no time at all, your horse will be trotting along, ready to be taken to the veterinarian for a more comprehensive evaluation. With Banixx, relief really is that simple.

We hope you found this article helpful and if your horse ever gets any cuts, abrasions, scratches or white line disease, we hope you keep Banixx Horse & Pet Care in mind.


  • https://www.bwequinevets.co.uk/130/wolf-teeth/
  • https://equimed.com/health-centers/dental-care/articles/wolf-teeth-in-horses
  • https://evds.net.au/tips-and-info/wolf-teeth
  • https://thehorse.com/118149/equine-wolf-teeth/
  • https://www.vetfolio.com/learn/article/from-the-horses-mouth-an-extraction-of-the-first-premolar-teeth
  • https://www.banixx.com/rain-rot-horse-how-to-treat/
  • https://www.banixx.com/thrush-horse-how-to-treat/
  • https://www.banixx.com/horse-chronic-white-line-disease/